For the lover of fine foods, the...

For the lover of fine foods, the most enjoyable establishments in the South Bay are not restaurants, but markets. And two of the finest specialty markets are the Bristol Farms in Manhattan Beach and Rolling Hills Estates. If you are planning a New Year’s party, this is the place.

“We are a gourmet specialty market the size of a supermarket,” said Manhattan Beach store director James Cascone, whose exuberance for the store’s food borders on the passionate. He will wax so poetically about a new lemon-infused olive oil that one is tempted not only to buy it, but to drink it. It is a passion shared by the other employees.

Aisle 1 features a salad case with more than two dozen varieties, a hot food and deli counter, and a bakery full of breads, muffins and cakes.

There are sections devoted to Oriental foods, (shrimp egg rolls are $1.25), handmade sausages, fine meats and seafood. A star of the fish case is the impressive colossal shrimp.

Vibrant produce from around the world is displayed, including several types of mushrooms, the best deal being the earthy crimini ($2.99 per pound). There are dozens of cheeses, including a tasty goat cheese called the Rolling Stone Chevre that is made in Idaho with cranberries and walnuts added. For the chocoholic, the truffles of Joseph Schmidt ($1.59 each) are superb.

The wine department is “la domaine” of expert Jamie Giannioses, who will gladly help you select the right bottle. He recommends the 1990 Byron Chardonnay ($11.99), and for a red, the 1991 Chateau Valcombe ($5.99). To bring in the New Year, pop open an American sparkler such as the Domaine St. Michelle ($8.95) or splurge on a J Schram ($50).

Still, of all the delicacies found in the store, my personal favorite is the Broguiere Dairy chocolate milk in the old style glass bottles. I can never make it to my car without taking a luscious gulp.

Bristol Farms is at 1570 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach. Open seven days from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. (310) 643-5258. The Rolling Hills Estates store is at 837 Silver Spur Road. Hours are 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. (310) 541-9157.

BRIAN VANDER BRUG / Los Angeles Times