Roots : Glazing the Lily

These onions go well with turkey and pork. They also make an excellent garnish for grilled steaks, baked ham or roasted Cornish hens.

You make them by sauteing peeled baby onions until they are fork-tender. Flavored with Madeira and beef stock along with thyme, cloves, orange zest, cinnamon and green peppercorns, they can be prepared a day ahead and quickly reheated when needed.

MADEIRA-GLAZED ONIONS 24 to 36 small white onions (1 to 2 inches in diameter), peeled Water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, about 2 tablespoons oil, about 2 cups medium-dry Madeira 1 cup beef stock Salt Freshly ground pepper Bouquet Garni 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Make X with knife on root end of each onion. Drop onions, few at time, in pan of rapidly boiling water 8 seconds. Remove with slotted spoon. Use sharp paring knife to remove skins.

Heat butter and oil in large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and saute, stirring constantly, until lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Add more butter and oil in equal amounts if needed. Add Madeira and beef stock and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bury Bouquet Garni in liquid. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer slowly until onions are quite tender and liquid is reduced, 30 to 40 minutes. If onions are done but liquid is not reduced to thick syrup, remove onions with slotted spoon to bowl, increase heat and reduce liquid until light syrupy consistency. Return onions to pan and discard Bouquet Garni. (If making onions ahead, cool, cover and refrigerate up to 1 day. Reheat slowly, stirring, over medium heat.)

To serve, place onions with sauce in shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve hot. Makes 8 servings.

Bouquet Garni 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 whole cloves 1 (1-inch) stick cinnamon 6 (3x1/2-inch) strips orange zest 2 bay leaves 1/2 teaspoon dried green peppercorns, crushed

Combine thyme, cloves, cinnamon, orange zest, bay leaves and green peppercorns in cheesecloth and tie with string.