Merci Beau Cru

When I hear the word Beaujolais , I think of spring and of the first breezy patio lunches of the year--salad, cheese, crunchy bread, cold meat. And, of course, a bottle of lightly chilled Beaujolais.

Beaujolais, released in early spring, is the wine once called vin des pieds humides . “The phrase means ‘wine of the wet feet,’ and it comes from the fact that when the day was over the workers would go to the local bar,” says Didier Mommessin, one of Beaujolais’ leading negociants , or wine merchants. “In most of the workers’ bars, the floor was dirt, and they’d be there drinking and spitting, and their feet would get wet.”

Such mundane Beaujolais is the cafe wine of Burgundy and Paris, better than water, but not much deeper or more stirring. Beaujolais Nouveau, which is released to great fanfare in mid-November, is the first wine of the harvest; but both versions are, by and large, mere quaffing wines.

The wine called Beaujolais-Villages is a step up in quality, usually with more oomph in both flavor and body. A little better and you have Beaujolais Superieur. But there are “serious” wines in the region; they are called Cru Beaujolais.

Coming from the very northern extreme of the Beaujolais-growing area, these wines offer unique character and are permitted to use their place-names on the labels. In fact, frequently the word Beaujolais is not even found on the label. To know that this is top-rate Beaujolais you must memorize the names: Brouilly, Cotes de Brouilly, Chenas, Julienas, Chiroubles, Morgon, Fleurie; Saint-Amour; Moulin-a-Vent, and the recently promoted village of Regnie.

While all Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages may account for 12 million cases of wine, the Cru Beaujolais may amount to less than 4 million cases. But they are far more substantial wines, and, of course, more expensive as well. A well-made Fleurie or Moulin-a-Vent can last and improve in the cellar for five or even 10 years.

There are differences among the various Beaujolais Grands Crus, but they are frequently subtle. Most agree that Moulin-a-Vent is the longest-lived Beaujolais, but even the experts disagree on just how long it will last.

“(It’s) a firm, meaty and savory wine that has less of the surging scent of Beaujolais in its first year but builds up a bouquet resembling Burgundy in bottle,” says Hugh Johnson.

“Even this monarch of Beaujolais usually loses some of its fruitiness and freshness when it is bottled for more than two years,” says Alexis Lichine.

Basically, Brouilly and Cotes de Brouilly are known as big, grape-y wines, with the latter--coming from the slopes of the mountain in the dead-center of the district--especially so. Julienas is known for harder, more tannic wines. (“It is considered mealtime Beaujolais rather than a thirst quencher,” says Johnson.) Morgon is known for a distinctive wild cherry flavor, Fleurie for its silkiness, Chiroubles for its balance and St-Amour for its delicacy. Chenas is somewhat similar to Moulin-a-Vent, which surrounds a part of it.

Among the biggest producers of Cru Beaujolais are Georges Duboeuf, Ferraud, Piat and Mommessin. The latter is one of the few producers that releases wines that are not only named for their cru but for the specific vineyards or estates they come from.

Though his wines were difficult to find in California for several years after a dispute with his previous distributor, Mommessin is back in force with the ’92 vintage. All of the wines are excellent, from the graceful Chiroubles “Chateau de Raousset” ($10; ripe, jam-like aroma and a delicately sweet finish) to the more powerful Moulin-a-Vent “Domaine de Champ de Cour” ($11.50; deeply rich with complex black-cherry cola notes).

The Brouilly “Chateau de Briante” ($9.75) is leaner than I prefer. However, I really love the spice and smoke of the Morgon “Domaine de Lathevalle” ($9.45) and the raspberry notes in the Fleurie “Clos de Roilette” ($11.70).

Though these wines may not be as deeply flavored as some of the excellent 1991 vintage Cru Beaujolais, they are more reasonably priced. Moreover, for those looking for a decent bottle of wine to go with a meal in a restaurant, few of these should be over $22. Compare that with a bottle of (likely as not undrinkable) young Cabernet Sauvignon that will set you back $35.

Wine of the Week

1991 Les Jamelles Syrah ($6)-- The huge, warm Languedoc region in the south of France has always had the potential to turn out better-than-average white wines and excellent reds. For decades, few hit our shores, but in the past few years that has changed. Better vinification and aging methods have led to a virtual flood of very good but inexpensive and almost un-branded wines. This direct import from Melvyn Masters, former national sales director for Jordan Winery, is a good example. The wine is spicy/earthy with a faint orange-peel aroma and has a ripe, peppery-plummy fruit base and great texture. It might be better after a year of aging, but served now with hearty foods, the wine is pleasing.