Get a Big Head

One sure bet in March is the prospect of abundant, well-priced cabbages heaped high in the produce bins, all in celebration of St. Patrick’s Day. Surely it’s not coincidental that this is the peak of the cabbage season.

Look for heads covered with crisp, dark-green leaves, typical of freshly harvested cabbage. But even if you have to buy cabbage that has been in storage for a while, don’t worry; the inner head of cabbage should still be firm, sweet and delicate, great in coleslaw as well as in cooked dishes.

The reliable storing quality found in cabbage is also a bonus at home, where cabbage can be counted on to stay crisp in the produce drawer, wrapped in a plastic food bag, for at least two weeks.

Best of all, cabbage is a versatile vegetable, adding a wonderful boost to a wide array of delicious dishes. Even simply and quickly sauteed in butter, it’s a sweet, special vegetable.

Still, cabbage has the reputation of being an unpleasant, smelly vegetable--too pedestrian to be interesting. The trick to keeping cabbage sweet and delicate is to cook it quickly, avoiding a long simmer that inevitably becomes smelly. There’s never a problem with aroma when the cabbage is used raw in slaws and salads.

There are so many robust flavors in this soup that the ingredients can be quickly combined and simmered together; no preliminary sauteing is necessary. This recipe can be easily doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.

SWEET-AND-SOUR TOMATO SOUP WITH CABBAGE AND SMOKED SAUSAGE 1 large onion, chopped 1/2 medium head cabbage, cored, sliced 2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch slices 1 (10-ounce) piece smoked Polish sausage, cut into 1/2-inch slices 1 (28-ounce) can stewed tomatoes, pureed with liquid 1/3 cup packed light-brown sugar 4 cups chicken stock or broth 1/2 teaspoon allspice 1/2 teaspoon paprika Salt Freshly ground pepper

Combine onion, cabbage, carrots, sausage, tomatoes, sugar, stock, allspice, paprika and salt and pepper to taste in 4-quart non-aluminum pot. Bring to boil. Simmer, covered, until carrots and cabbage are tender, about 20 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste.

(Soup can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated or frozen up to 3 months. Reheat gently. Adjust seasonings.)

Makes 9 to 10 cups, or 6 main-course servings.

Each main-course serving contains about: 291 calories; 1,339 mg sodium; 34 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 1.43 grams fiber.

Here, cabbage is thinly sliced and quickly sauteed in a mix of shallots, tarragon and seasoned rice vinegar. Served hot, it’s a great vegetable accompaniment to most main courses, especially game, grilled meats and roasts. As a cold dish, it tastes much like a light sauerkraut.

SAUTEED CABBAGE WITH SHALLOTS AND TARRAGON 1 tablespoon oil 6 large shallots, thinly sliced 1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar 1 medium head cabbage, split, cored, thinly sliced 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon 1/8 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add shallots. Brown lightly, about 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often.

Add seasoned rice vinegar. Bring to boil. Add cabbage, tarragon and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine. Cook, covered, until cabbage is almost tender but still with some texture, about 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. (Cabbage can be made day ahead and refrigerated. To serve hot, reheat gently.) Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 115 calories; 121 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.06 grams fiber.

This is one slaw that should be mixed just before it’s served. Freshly dressed, the slaw will have a lighter, better flavor.

CABBAGE SLAW WITH LEMON, PEPPER AND PARMESAN CHEESE 1/2 large head cabbage, cored, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons light-tasting olive oil 1 teaspoon lemon zest, removed with zester or grater 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Just before serving, toss cabbage, oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, cheese, salt and pepper together in large bowl. Adjust seasonings and lemon to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 174 calories; 540 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.88 gram fiber.