Thistle for Your Supper

Italians have more appealing ways to cook artichokes than almost anyone else.

In Rome, Italians may serve carciofi alla Romana , a cold appetizer, or carciofi alla Giuidia (Jewish-style), whole artichokes twice-fried in oil.

But most varieties of Italian artichokes are slightly smaller and more tender than our California globe artichokes, which generally come from around Castroville, near Monterey.

The following recipes are from Linda Calafiore, a Chicago cooking teacher who prepares artichokes according to her aunt’s recipes, which are typical of Naples. They work equally well with the larger globe artichokes.

*

These artichokes are stuffed with a garlic-bread-crumb mixture that becomes moist during cooking and adheres to the leaves. Serve them hot with a cruet of fruity olive oil and a pepper grinder on the table. Use your fingers to remove and enjoy the breading and the “meat” on each leaf, then a knife and fork for the remaining stuffing and heart.

ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH GARLIC BREAD CRUMBS

4 medium artichokes

2 cups day-old bread crumbs

1/2 cup plus 4 teaspoons freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup minced parsley

Olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Remove dark green outer leaves of artichokes. Trim stem flat so that artichoke will sit flat. Cut 3/4-inch off top of artichoke with stainless-steel serrated knife. Place artichoke stem-end-up on counter and press down firmly to spread and loosen inner leaves. Under cold running water, spread outer leaves and pull out light inner leaves. Use sharp grapefruit spoon to remove hairy choke. Rinse thoroughly. Drain artichokes stem-end-up on paper towels.

Combine bread crumbs with 1/2 cup cheese, garlic, parsley, 2 tablespoons oil, salt and pepper to taste in small dish. Alternately, these ingredients can be mixed in food processor with metal blade.

Divide stuffing evenly between artichokes, first filling centers, then tucking small amounts down in between leaves. Stand artichokes in casserole just large enough to hold all artichokes.

Carefully pour boiling water to 1-inch depth around artichokes. Lightly salt water. Drizzle 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil over artichokes. Sprinkle remaining 4 teaspoons cheese over each. Simmer, with cover slightly askew to let steam out, until tender (paring knife should go easily through center), about 30 minutes. Check water level occasionally and add more as needed. Use metal spatula to gently transfer to serving plate. Serve hot, passing more olive oil and pepper grinder separately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

334 calories; 736 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 1.65 grams fiber.

*

Marinated home-cooked artichoke hearts bear little resemblance to those found in a jar. They are great looking, fresh tasting and very flavorful. The choke will most likely need to be cut away although sometimes it’s tender enough to eat. These are excellent as part of an antipasti platter or as an accompaniment to a supper of cold roasted chicken with herbs.

MARINATED ARTICHOKE HEARTS

4 small to medium artichokes

1/2 lemon

4 cups water

1 1/3 cups white vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 cup olive oil

1 medium clove garlic, peeled

1/2 cup parsley leaves

2 tablespoons oregano leaves

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt

Pull off outer leaves of artichokes until light inner part is revealed. Trim end of stem and use paring knife to taper stem. Rub artichokes with lemon to prevent darkening. Put artichokes in cold water with little lemon juice until ready to cook.

Bring water, vinegar and salt to boil in non-aluminum pot. Add artichokes. Cook, covered, until tender (paring knife should go easily through center), 18 to 25 minutes, depending on size. Use slotted spoon to transfer to colander. Drain and cool. Remove hearts from artichokes and put hearts in plastic food bag. Add oil. (Remaining cooked artichokes leaves may be eaten separately.) Can be made ahead and refrigerated up to 3 days. Serve at room temperature before serving.

In small processor or blender, mix garlic, parsley, oregano and red pepper until garlic is minced.

To serve, drain most (not all) of oil from room-temperature artichokes, reserving oil for another use such as vinaigrette. Sprinkle lightly with salt to taste. Sprinkle with garlic-parsley mixture. Can be prepared 1 hour in advance and kept at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

197 calories; 1082 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.63 grams fiber.

*

Try not to use the largest artichokes for this recipe; smaller artichokes are more tender. Served with lemon and sprinkled with salt, these artichokes are a great hors d’oeuvre or vegetable side dish. You don’t need to use extra-virgin olive oil for frying; a light-tasting olive oil will do. The frying should be done at the last minute, but the fried artichokes will hold in a warm oven up to 20 minutes.

BATTER-FRIED ARTICHOKE WEDGES

1/3 cup flour

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

4 small to medium artichokes

Olive oil

3 large eggs, beaten

Lemon wedges

Combine flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Bring salted water to boil in 3-quart pot. Remove outer leaves of artichokes to reveal light tender leaves. Trim end off stem. Use paring knife to smooth base and remove peel from stem. Use serrated stainless-steel knife to cut 1/3 inch off top. Quarter artichokes lengthwise, carefully cutting away choke. Rinse well.

Add wedges to boiling water. Cook until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Use slotted spoon to transfer to paper towels. Let drain until dry. Can be cooked ahead and refrigerated overnight.

Heat 1-inch depth of oil in 7-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, put eggs and flour mixture in 2 separate shallow soup plates.

Coat artichokes lightly with flour, then dip into beaten eggs. When oil is hot (bread crumb will sizzle if dropped in), fry artichokes in small batches until well browned on both sides, about 3 minutes total. Use tongs to transfer to baking sheet lined with paper towels. Blot both sides. Keep warm at 250 degrees until remaining artichokes are cooked. Be sure to let oil return to full heat before cooking next batch. Serve hot with lemon wedges and salt. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

237 calories; 617 mg sodium; 212 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 2.03 grams fiber.