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Valley Parenting : A Taste for Cooking : Culinary programs eliminate mess of home teaching and encourage creativity and open-mindedness about food.

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES:<i> Barbara Bronson Gray writes regularly for The Times. </i>

From early childhood on, kids have a natural affinity for the kitchen. And they move quickly from a simple love of clanking bowls and clattering mea suring spoons to an appreciation of fresh-baked cookies or homemade pizza.

Phyllis Vaccarelli, owner of Let’s Get Cookin’ in Westlake Village, says parents are increasingly interested in offering their children cooking lessons--not in the style of the great culinary schools, but in the form of practical sessions that teach the basics and keep kids entertained.

A cooking class eliminates the mess of home teaching and puts youngsters in the company of other children for creative experiences. In addition, Vaccarelli says, cooking classes help stretch children’s taste repertoire by tempting them with foods they might not ordinarily try. For the most part, of course, the classes are based on recipes that will be interesting to young eaters. “We’re not going to make liver,” she admits.

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At Let’s Get Cookin’, little students learn to whip up “Old McDonald’s barnyard cookies,” “Snow White Cherry Candy Apples” and “Elephant Hot Dogs on a Stick.”

Others who teach children’s cooking classes advocate a more sober, almost respectful attitude toward nourishment. Donna Wilson, a cooking teacher and owner of The Ginkgo Leaf, a Woodland Hills bookstore, believes that children should be taught that food is sacred.

While Wilson focuses mainly on adult classes, she has, in the past, taught children to prepare food using an unusually down-to-earth approach. “We need to quit making entertainment out of it,” she says.

Whatever a parent’s philosophy, there are some important ingredients to look for in a children’s cooking class.

Vaccarelli, who has held classes for the super small fry, suggests starting children about age 6, when they have the attention span to enjoy a two-hour class and the dexterity needed for cups and tools.

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Classes must be participatory, she says, and they should not involve more than 12 to 15 students. The room should be set up so children can easily see what is being demonstrated, whether by sitting on stools or looking into a mirror placed above the work island.

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Sylvia Rieman, a member of the International Assn. of Cooking Professionals and a foods and catering teacher at Granada Hills High School, often gives classes for young chefs. She advises parents to be sure that the teacher they choose is patient and understands children.

Vaccarelli adds that teachers should emphasize safety.

In her experience, while it’s wise to keep things simple for the younger set, older children are intrigued by more complicated recipes. Vaccarelli enjoys challenging 10- to 14-year-olds with classes like “Leaven from the Oven,” in which they prepare chocolate chip meringue shells with sweet Bavarian creme and fresh berries, and a variety of sweet breads.

Parent-child classes are another popular option at Let’s Get Cookin’. Often they draw fathers and their progeny, especially for such topics as “Texas-Style BBQ and Picnic” or “Chili Cook Off.” Also offered are seasonal courses that involve the construction of haunted houses for meringue goblins, and gingerbread houses at Christmas.

Some classes for children focus on a particular type of cooking. Everywoman’s Village in Van Nuys, for example, offers a summer course in pie-making for kids and teens. Other classes may be more theme based, presenting ‘50s-style cooking, or culturally inspired, featuring pizza-making or stir-fry recipes.

While prices vary widely, classes generally run about $25 for two hours.

According to Rieman, kids are a lot more capable in the kitchen than most grown-ups realize.

“Parents are often afraid to let their children use a knife,” she says, “. . . but if they teach the children properly, they will do fine.”

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WHERE TO GO

Location: Let’s Get Cookin’, 4643 Lakeview Canyon Road, Westlake Village.

Call: (818) 991-3940.

Location: Everywoman’s Village, 5650 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys.

Call: (818) 787-5100.

Location: Pierce College Extension, 6201 Winnetka Ave., Woodland Hills.

Call: (818) 719-6425.

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