Bistro Classics
When talk turns to French bistro food, there are certain dishes that are bound to be mentioned: roast chicken, fricasseed rabbit or game bird, fresh sardines, marinated herring and warm potato salad, artichokes a la barigoule , mussels in many guises, and steak with shallots and frites , to name just a few.
My favorites are onion soup, thick with caramelized onions and topped with sizzling cheese croutons; ratatouille, cooked down and subtle-tasting, and tarte tatin. It’s probably no surprise that these three appear frequently on American menus--they are so delicious we have come to adopt them as our own.
Take the onion soup recipe that follows, for example. That a mound of onions slowly sweated, then caramelized and cooked in broth produces such a heavenly result is amazing. Finished off with a toasted garlic crouton and sizzling Gruyere cheese, it’s a meal in itself.
The ratatouille recipe is not the quickly sauteed version, where the vegetables are barely tender, but rather a mixture of puree-tender vegetables, still somewhat intact, that cooks slowly in its own juices.
The tarte tatin is actually an upside-down apple pie of the highest order, boasting a caramelized finish that is irresistible. Served warm with vanilla ice cream, it’s one of my absolute passions.
These recipes were not intended to comprise a menu, but they would, in fact, make a great meal-- the gratinee onion soup followed by ratatouille with a side of sausage, a selection of cheeses and great crusty bread, and then the tarte tatin . A full-bodied red wine is the perfect companion.
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Onion soup can run the gamut from mainly broth to mainly onions. Here, it’s about halfway--loads of onions but enough broth to sustain them. Slowly sauteing and then caramelizing the onions are essential steps for a sweet, rich-tasting onion soup. There’s time involved but it’s not at all difficult.
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GRATINEE LYONNAISE (Onion Soup With Broiled Cheese Croutons)
1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon oil 3 pounds Spanish onions, thinly sliced 1/4 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper 2 teaspoons sugar 3 1/2 cups beef broth 1 3/4 cups low-salt chicken broth 4 (1/2-inch) thick baguette slices 1 garlic clove, split 1 1/3 cups shredded Gruyere cheese
Heat butter and oil in 3-quart pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add onions, salt, pepper to taste and sugar. Toss to mix well. Press piece of wax paper over onions to cover completely. Cook gently, covered, until onions are very tender, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove paper. Cook over medium-high heat until onions are light-brown and caramelized, about 20 minutes, stirring as edges caramelize.
Add beef and chicken broths. Simmer, covered, 40 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste. Can be made few days ahead and refrigerated. Before serving, heat until very hot.
For croutons, arrange bread slices in single layer on baking sheet. Bake at 250 degrees until lightly toasted, about 15 minutes per side. Remove from oven. Rub bread with cut edges of garlic.
To serve, set toasted bread in individual deep oven-proof soup bowls. Ladle boiling soup over bread. Place bowls on baking sheet. Sprinkle each with cheese, dividing evenly. Broil until browned and sizzling. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.
Each serving contains about:
339 calories; 1,416 mg sodium; 40 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.58 gram fiber.
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This versatile vegetable mix can be served warm, chilled or at room temperature. In France, at a charming little storefront restaurant in Gordes named Comptoir du Victuailler, I was served this delicious ratatouille at room temperature as a first course, neatly spooned on a simple white plate and garnished with a fresh sprig of thyme. Because the zucchini is sauteed first and then added to the ratatouille separately midway through the cooking, it retains a nice green color. Reserving 1/2 tablespoon of the oil and mixing it into the vegetables after they are cooked rounds out the flavors beautifully.
RATATOUILLE
2 medium eggplants, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 1/4 teaspoons salt 2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium zucchini, cut into 1/3-inch cubes 1 large Spanish onion, minced 6 large garlic cloves, minced 2 medium plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into 1/3-inch dice 1/2 sweet red pepper, cut into 1/3-inch dice 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 teaspoon dried basil Freshly ground pepper
Combine eggplant and 1 teaspoon salt in colander. Weight down eggplant. Let drain 30 minutes. Rinse well. Blot excess moisture with paper towels.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add zucchini and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook quickly until bright-green and heated thoroughly, about 3 minutes, stirring often. Use slotted spoon to set aside.
Add 1 more tablespoon oil. When hot, add onion and garlic. Cook until onion is tender, about 4 minutes, stirring often to avoid scorching. Add eggplant, tomatoes, sweet red pepper, thyme, basil and pepper to taste. Stir well. Cover tightly. Cook on low 25 minutes, stirring often. Add zucchini and collected juices. Stir well. Cook, covered, 25 more minutes until zucchini is tender but still intact.
Remove from heat. Stir in remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil. Adjust seasonings to taste. Can be made several days ahead and refrigerated. Serve chilled, at room temperature or warm. Makes 6 servings.
Each serving contains about:
106 calories; 502 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.75 grams fiber.
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With this tarte tatin, the trick is to stop the caramelizing process before it burns. Having a pan of ice nearby in which to set the bottom of the skillet is great insurance. A 9-inch cast-iron skillet is the best piece of equipment for this dessert. Granny Smiths provide just the right tartness. Be sure to buy apples that are not too large--that makes them difficult to arrange in the pan. Prepared pie crusts from the refrigerator section of the market provide a good shortcut, if you’re looking for one.
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TARTE TATIN
sugar 3 tablespoons butter 10 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cut into eighths 1 teaspoon cinnamon Prepared pastry crust, rolled out to 11-inch diameter Vanilla ice cream, optional
In 9-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat cook 2/3 cup sugar until golden brown, about 5 minutes, swirling pan occasionally. Place skillet on ice to stop browning.
Dot bottom of skillet with 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces. Toss apples with 3 tablespoons sugar and cinnamon. Arrange apples tightly together around edge of skillet, rounded-side-down. Fill in center in concentric circle. Add second layer of apples, filling in separations. Apples should be tightly packed. Dot surface with remaining butter, cut into small bits.
Place pastry on top of apples. Tuck pastry edges down around sides of pan and apples. Place skillet on baking sheet to catch juices.
Bake at 400 degrees until crust is browned and juices are thickened, about 1 hour and 10 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes. Place platter over skillet. Gently invert tart onto platter. Can be made few hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Tart can be reheated on serving platter at 250 degrees until barely warm, about 7 minutes. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Makes 6 servings.
Each serving contains about:
621 calories; 256 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 89 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.26 grams fiber.