STYLE: HOME ENTERTAINING : The Potluck Club

Contrary to rumors during these belt-tightening times, the dinner party is not dead. It has just gone potluck.

Whoever would have thought that, like our parents, we’d be writing our names on masking tape stuck to the bottoms of bowls and platters? We can recall endless buffets of foods designed for portability and heft: Waldorf salads, ambrosia and 101 permutations of Jell-O. Green bean casserole, macaroni and cheese, tamale pie and Swedish meatballs. Cobblers, pies and sheet cakes. Could it really be us trundling to our host’s front door, arms loaded with lidded casseroles, Tupperware and sliding-top cake pans?

Let’s hope not.

Communal effort in cooking may be the Zeitgeist of the ‘90s, but at today’s potluck dinners, a hodgepodge of food in tin, plastic and paper is decidedly out of date. Now there’s potluck etiquette, and the first rule is that everything must be presented in an attractive dish. This means no Tupperware, no aluminum foil and no Crock-Pots. To help cut the clutter of mismatched dishes, a potluck host can unify presentation by announcing a theme. For example: white. White food can be served on white china on white linen surrounded by white flowers. Too bland? Try another color. Other serving ware choices could include basketry, festive paper, antique salvers, bright California pottery, pewter, silver, glass or wood. Culinary themes abound: One eating club worked through the alphabet, starting with foods that began with A, then B, then C and so on. I’ve also heard of ethnic potlucks and favorite-foods-from-childhood potlucks.

Occasionally, hosts devise whole menus and hand out recipes, but the only “luck” in this procedure is the guests’ luck of the draw: who has to make the mousse chaude de truite de riviere au coulis d’ecrevisses and who gets to bring ice. Other common mistakes in hosting a potluck include not exerting enough control (“I don’t care what your bring. . .”), taking on too much of the burden yourself (cooking, plus supplying all the drinks and tableware), assigning too little food (you can rarely have too much) and giving men all the easy jobs (bringing beverages and bread).

The guests’ job is to do their part in a way that celebrates--or at least does not humiliate--their host. Potlucks originally meant meals for which no special preparations were made; people simply brought what they ate at home. As guests, we decide: Do we bring what we really would have eaten? Or do we show off and pretend that’s the way we normally dine? One man I know brings either extravagant, labor-intensive dishes or mineral water.

These days, there’s another alternative. Ranging from Peking duck and fresh spring rolls to gourmet salads and lovely pates, takeout food is not only permissible for potlucks, it’s also preferable if you have no time or talent for cooking. But don’t try to pass off Trader Joe’s mousses and pates as your own--we all know better.

Guests who do cook should bring dishes that require little or no prep time and no serving utensils or ingredients (not even butter or salad dressing) from the host. A little last-minute assembling is OK-- crudites , for example, are best arranged at the party lest they get jumbled during the car ride over. Also, when arriving at a potluck, check with the host before setting your dish on the buffet so you don’t unwittingly blemish an artful design. When leaving, make every effort to retrieve your own dish.

Common mistakes made by potluck guests include bringing food that doesn’t travel well (layer cakes, fried foods, foods that congeal), making something big rather than good (20 quarts of tabouli , pasta or potato salad) and waiting until the last minute to decide what to contribute and then overspending to compensate (Was that $45 foie gras really necessary?).

The holidays are almost here. Dream up a theme, set a date, make a guest list. In these strapped economic times, we may not have the time, energy or money to singlehandedly host the lavish dinner party of our dreams, but with friends, imagination and a little potluck, we’ll do just fine.

You Can Take It With You

GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE

From “The California Cook” (due next spring from Bantam), by Diane Rosen Worthington:

20 large (30 medium) green olives, pitted 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbsp capers, well-drained and rinsed 2 anchovy fillets, drained 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp basil, finely chopped 1/4 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper 1/3 cup olive oil

Combine all ingredients except olive oil in food processor fitted with steel blade and puree. With motor running, add oil until absorbed. Taste to correct seasoning. Place in airtight container and refrigerate. To serve, transfer to hollowed-out head of red cabbage surrounded by toasted bread and ornamental kale leaves. Makes about 1 cup.

GOAT CHEESE SPREAD ON PECAN AND PROSCIUTTO BREAD

Goat Cheese Spread: 5 slices prosciutto, cut into thin strips 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 lb goat cheese 3/4 cup half-and-half 2 Tbsp summer savory, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced Olive oil 3 loaves pecan and prosciutto bread (see below) Fresh savory sprigs

In skillet, saute prosciutto in two tablespoons of hot olive oil until strips begin to curl and turn crispy. Remove and drain. Beat together goat cheese and half-and-half until creamy. Stir in summer savory and garlic. Cut each loaf of pecan and prosciutto bread into 30 slices. Lightly brush slices with oil and toast under broiler. Spread cheese mixture on slices. Top each with prosciutto and fresh savory. Makes 90 appetizers.

Pecan and Prosciutto Bread:

From “Nuts: A Cookbook” (Fireside), by Ford Rogers:

6 oz prosciutto, chopped 5 Tbsp unsalted butter, margarine or vegetable shortening at room temperature 1 1/4 cups warm water 1 1/4 oz envelope active dry yeast 2 tsp granulated sugar 4 1/3-4 2/3 cups bread flour (unbleached all-purpose flour may be substituted) 1 1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper 1 1/2 cups pecans, coarsely chopped 2 tsp cornmeal

Grease inside of large bowl and set aside. In skillet, saute prosciutto in 1/2 tablespoon of butter over medium heat about 2 minutes. Pour prosciutto and butter into mixing bowl. Stir in water, yeast and sugar. Then blend in 1 cup of flour and 4 tablespoons of remaining butter. Finally, mix in pepper, pecans and 3 cups of remaining flour.

Spread 1/3 cup flour on work surface and knead dough, incorporating only enough flour to prevent sticking. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Shape into ball and place in greased bowl. Turn to grease dough, cover and let rise until doubled, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Sprinkle cornmeal on baking sheet. Melt remaining 1/2 tablespoon of butter. When dough has doubled, punch down and turn out onto lightly floured surface. Divide and shape into three 14-by-3-inch rolls. Brush with butter, cover loosely and let double again, about 30 minutes. Midway through second rise, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake until bread is browned and sounds hollow when tapped, about 30 minutes. Cool on rack. Makes 3 loaves.

MUSHROOM SALAD WITH FENNEL

From “Fog City Diner Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press), by Cindy Pawlcyn:

1 head Belgian endive 1 bunch arugula (about 8 oz), or watercress, coarse stems removed 1 head chicory frisee, trimmed of green part, or 1 head escarole, white inner leaves only 1 head butter lettuce, or 1/2 head romaine lettuce, inner leaves only

Wash, dry and toss greens together in large mixing bowl. Refrigerate.

Mushroom and Fennel Marinade:

2 scallions, minced 2 tsp tamari soy sauce 3 Tbsp sherry vinaigrette (see below) 2 tsp sesame oil 1 fennel bulb 4-6 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cleaned 4-6 chanterelle, morel or hedgehog mushrooms 3-4 Tbsp olive oil Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground pepper

Whisk together scallions, soy sauce, sherry vinaigrette and sesame oil. Slice fennel thinly, combine with marinade and set aside. If mushrooms are small, leave whole; cut large ones in half. Lightly toss mushrooms in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast at 350 degrees until tender but not mushy, about 6 minutes. Coat mushrooms lightly with marinade, toss and marinate 1 hour. To serve, toss greens with sherry vinaigrette, top with fennel and mushrooms. Garnish with pecans.

Sherry Vinaigrette:

3 Tbsp sherry vinegar 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 shallots, peeled and minced Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground pepper 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 6 Tbsp light olive oil

In bowl, mix all ingredients except olive oils. Whisk in oils until emulsified. SALAD OF HERBS WITH POTATO CROUTONS

From “Potatoes: A Country Garden Cookbook” (Collins Publishers), by Maggie Waldron:

Lemon Dressing:

1/4 cup olive oil 2 Tbsp champagne or white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp shallots, minced 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/2 to 1 tsp sugar, or to taste

In bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, lemon juice, shallots, salt and pepper. Add enough sugar to balance flavors.

Potato Croutons:

Vegetable oil 2/3 lb russet potatoes (2 medium), cut into 1/2-inch cubes and blotted on paper towels Lemon pepper 10 cups loosely packed, herb sprigs and leaves (watercress, arugula, cilantro, mint, oregano, Italian parsley, basil and dill), washed and dried.

In a skillet, heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil to 375 degrees. Fry potato cubes until cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Oil should be hot but not smoking. Drain potatoes and sprinkle with lemon pepper. In large bowl, toss herbs with dressing. Top with potato croutons and currant tomatoes. Makes 4 servings.

CHINESE BEEF STEW

From “China Express” (William Morrow), by Nina Simonds:

2 lbs stewing beef, such as rump or bottom round roast 2 Tbsp soy sauce 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup corn or safflower oil 10 cloves garlic, lightly smashed with flat side of a knife and peeled 4 slices fresh ginger (about the size of a quarter), lightly smashed 2 cups boiling beef stock 1 cup water 1 1/2 cups red wine 2 1/2 tsp soy sauce 2 star anise, lightly smashed 12 small carrots, trimmed and scraped 12 small white onions, trimmed and peeled

Trim fat or gristle from beef. Cut meat into 1 1/2-inch cubes and place in bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of soy sauce and toss lightly to coat. Place flour in plastic bag, add beef and toss to coat. Transfer to plate, shaking off excess flour.

In casserole or Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons of oil. Add as many beef cubes as will fit comfortably and fry until golden brown. Remove and drain. Fry remaining beef and drain.

Fry garlic and ginger until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add stock, water, red wine, 2 1/2 teaspoons of soy sauce and star anise, and bring to boil. Add beef and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes.

Add carrots and onions and cook 45 minutes or until meat is tender. Skim off fat and serve. Makes 6 servings.

VEGETABLE LASAGNA

From L.A.-based restaurant critic Michelle Huneven:

Tomato sauce (see below) Roasted vegetables (see below) Sauteed bitter greens (see below) Ricotta cheese mixture (see below) 1 package lasagna noodles, cooked 1 lb mozzarella cheese, cut into 16 thin round slices 8 oz Romano cheese, grated

Tomato Sauce:

3 lbs fresh Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 2 28-oz cans plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, plus 1/2 cup liquid from tomatoes 1 large yellow onion, chopped 4-5 basil leaves, torn

Saute onion in 2 tablespoons of olive oil until golden. Add tomatoes and cook over low to medium heat about 10 minutes. Turn off heat. Add basil. If using fresh tomatoes, add salt to taste. Set aside. Makes 2 1/2 cups.

Roasted Vegetables:

2 large red peppers, cut into 1-inch squares 1 large yellow onion, halved, then each half quartered 4 zucchini (8 inches long), halved, then cut into 1/2-inch slices 4 carrots quartered, then cut into 1/4-inch chunks 1 Tbsp coarse salt 1/4 cup olive oil

Heat oven to 450 degrees. Place vegetables in large roasting pan, one layer deep. Drizzle with olive oil, then salt. Roast, stirring frequently for 20 minutes or until done. A few charred tips on the onions are desirable.

Sauteed Bitter Greens:

1 large head of escarole, rapini or dandelion greens 3 cloves garlic, chopped Squeeze of lemon

Wash, dry and chop greens into 1-inch lengths. In skillet over medium heat, pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add garlic. After 30 seconds, add escarole. Stir to coat and wilt escarole. Add scant 1/4 cup water and squeeze of lemon. Cover and steam 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover and boil off water.

Ricotta Cheese Mixture:

1 lb ricotta cheese 3 heaping Tbsp Romano cheese 1 cup fresh parsley, chopped

Combine in bowl.

To assemble lasagna, spread half of the tomato sauce in bottom of large roasting pan. Top with layer of noodles. Brush noodles with oil from roasted vegetables. Top with all the roasted vegetables. Top with half of the mozzarella slices. Arrange another layer of noodles brushed with oil. Top with three-fourths of the ricotta mixture. Top with all the bitter greens. Arrange another layer of noodles brushed with oil. Top with remaining sauce, mozzarella and ricotta. Sprinkle with Romano cheese. Bake at 350 degrees until warmed through and bubbly, 20 to 30 minutes. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

PUMPKIN BREAD PUDDING WITH EGGNOG BRANDY SAUCE

From “The California Cook”:

Pumpkin Custard: 1/2 cup golden raisins 1/2 cup brandy 4 large eggs 3 large egg yolks 1 1/4 cups sugar 1/2 cup pumpkin puree 3 cups half-and-half 2 tsp vanilla extract 1/4 tsp cinnamon 1/4 tsp allspice 1/4 tsp ginger 1/4 tsp nutmeg 1 loaf pumpkin hazelnut bread (see below) Eggnog brandy sauce (see below)

In small saucepan, combine raisins and brandy and bring to boil. Remove raisins and let plump 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 2-quart oval or round baking dish. Place dish in larger pan that will serve as a bain - marie pan . In mixer bowl with mixer on medium speed, beat eggs and egg yolks until frothy. Slowly add sugar and beat until thick and lemon-colored. Add pumpkin puree and half-and-half to egg mixture on low speed. Add raisins, brandy, vanilla extract and spices, and mix.

Cut pumpkin hazelnut bread into 1/8-inch slices and place in dish so they overlap. Ladle custard over bread until dish is filled, making sure raisins are evenly distributed. Pour enough boiling water in larger pan to reach halfway up sides of baking dish. Bake 40 to 45 minutes.

Push down bread with large spoon. The liquid custard will rise. Spoon custard evenly over bread. Bake 10 more minutes or until center tests done. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cut into squares. Serve with eggnog brandy sauce. Makes 8 servings.

Pumpkin Hazelnut Bread:

1/2 cup hazelnuts, chopped 1/4 cup unsalted butter ( 1/2 stick), softened 1/2 cup, plus 2 Tbsp, dark brown sugar, firmly packed 1/2 cup sugar 2 large eggs 1 tsp orange zest, finely chopped 1/2 cup orange juice 1 cup canned pumpkin puree 2 cups all-purpose flour 1/4 tsp salt 2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 2 tsp pumpkin pie spice, or a blend of 1/2 tsp each cinnamon, nutmeg, ground ginger and allspice 1/2 cup golden raisins

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 4-by-8-inch loaf pans. Bake hazelnuts on baking sheet 5 to 7 minutes or until lightly browned. In large bowl, cream butter and both sugars with mixer on medium speed until well-blended. Add eggs, orange zest, orange juice and pumpkin puree and mix well on low speed. Combine dry ingredients, add and mix well on low speed. Do not overmix. Add hazelnuts and raisins and mix just enough to combine. Transfer evenly to loaf pans and bake 45 to 50 minutes or until center tests done. Cool at least 15 minutes, then turn out onto rack. Makes 2 loaves.

Eggnog Brandy Sauce:

3 egg yolks 3/4 cup superfine sugar 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened 1 cup whipping cream 3 egg whites 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 2-3 Tbsp brandy, cognac or applejack 1/8 Tbsp freshly grated nutmeg

In double boiler on medium heat, combine egg yolks, sugar and butter and whisk until thick and lemon-colored. Be careful not to overcook and curdle eggs. Mixture is done when it coats a spoon. Cool. In separate bowls, whip egg whites and cream until stiff. Fold egg whites and cream alternately into egg yolk mixture until no streaks remain. Fold in vanilla extract, brandy and nutmeg. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.