Restaurants : THE WINE LIST

Savvy wine buyers can have a lot of fun matching some of the wines at Armani with the creative foods. And prices are fair, considering the high-rent district.

The faintly sweet ravioli di zucca is a wonder with 1991 Freemark Abbey Riesling, $16, or 1991 St. Francis Gewurztraminer, $19; the risotto with wild mushrooms and prosciutto works with the 1990 Barbera d’Alba from Punset, $24, and the butterflied chicken in lemon-rosemary sauce is a perfect match for 1991 Flora Springs Sauvignon Blanc, $21.

Splurgers can find great wine here, too, including Kistler Chardonnay, Solaia, Opus One and Tignanello. Among the whites, try superb Arneis from Ceretto, $26; among the reds, the bargain of the list is surely 1978 Barolo Riserva from Marchesi di Barolo, $45.