THE WINE LIST

Cava is a Spanish word that refers to sparkling wine, and the bubblies on the wine list at Cava include three good representatives from Spain. The wine list also has more than a dozen Spanish table wines, eight of them red, so it’s clear the owners are trying to be true to the culinary design of the place.

I liked the fact that the waiter, asked to explain one of the Spanish wines, enthusiastically said he had been given training in Spanish wines. But he added that the 1990 Tinto Pesquera was “made from the tinto grape.”

Oh, well, he was almost right. Tinto is Spanish for “red,” and the wine we asked about is, in fact, red.

No matter. The wines are all fairly priced here, especially the Spanish reds. One of the wines we ordered was 1990 Guelbenzu Tinto, which seemed like it had a Cabernet base, decent fruit and substance for the $20 price.

Good value here is the 1991 Dunnewood Chardonnay, $17; even better may be 1992 Sauvignon Blanc from St. Supery, $18.

Ten wines are available by the glass, priced from $4 to $6.50 per glass, but if you’re ordering more than three glasses of a single wine, the bottle may be a better buy.