CLUB REVIEW : Toyko Delve’s: Sushi With a Dash of Camp

Tokyo Delve’s is the kind of place you never forget--the music’s loud, the food’s not especially appealing and the service borders on slapstick. So why is it a kick in the pants to spend an evening at the North Hollywood sushi bar?

If you love rock ‘n’ roll with a dash of camp, the garishly decorated hot spot is your place.

The sushi bar, which is packed to the gills six nights a week (it’s closed on Sundays), blares ‘70s rock music such as AC/DC’s “Dirty Deeds” and Van Halen’s “Runnin’ With the Devil,” while the chefs and waiters scream out the lyrics.

The latter--whose singing and dance instincts often seem inspired by “Star Search”--may initially inspire you to run for cover. But once you realize their exuberance is part of the room’s spirit, you may start singing along with them.

Although some tables have jukeboxes, the music selection is monopolized by the sushi chefs, who clearly favor American hard-rock acts. The chefs, who also wear Walkmans while listening to the music that’s blasting throughout the venue’s speakers, appear to know every major Black Sabbath and Alice Cooper song. And they sing concurrently with the regular clientele when a favorite tune comes on.

Tokyo Delve’s is located in the artsy NoHo district, and the chefs proudly boast that the numerous recording studios nearby have prompted Axl Rose and Eddie Vedder to drop in.

If you can take the constant aural assault, Delve’s is worth at least a visit--preferably one that’s armed with ear plugs.

* Tokyo Delve’s, 5239 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, (818) 766-3868.