The View From Mt. Manuel

Arguably the best view of Big Sur can be found from one of the many automobile turnouts along California 1. These vista points offer glimpses of the region’s dramatic cliffs and the tempestuous Pacific Ocean.

But if you want to see the whole of Big Sur--that is to say, the Ventana Wilderness and the Santa Lucia Mountains and the deep blue ocean that stretches, it seems, all the way to China--you have to take a hike. Such a broad panorama is the hiker’s reward for reaching the summit of Mt. Manuel.

Some hikers say the view from Mt. Manuel is Big Sur’s best. Others make a case for the vista from Junipero Serra Peak, which they say offers far-reaching views east to the Central Valley and, on especially clear days, the High Sierra. I’ve never much enjoyed the brutal, shadeless trek to the top of Junipero Serra, and have never been lucky enough to stand on its summit on a day sufficiently clear to see any Sierra peaks. So I side with the Manuel boosters.

From atop Mt. Manuel, you get a panorama of Ventana Wilderness peaks, Pt. Sur and the most dramatic of coastlines: in short, the heart of Big Sur.

Mt. Manuel Trail isn’t as inspiring as its summit views, but it definitely has its moments. En route are a wonderful oak woodland and a stand of redwood. Mt. Manuel does not hoard all of its views atop its summit, however; the hiker will find many inspiring vistas from the trail at lower elevations.

Mt. Manuel Trail climbs at a fairly steep--though not severe--gradient. It’s definitely a heart-pounding aerobic workout. The path is a bit brush-crowded in places but otherwise is in good condition.

The colder months (November-May) are best for the trek up Mt. Manuel. More than half of the trail crosses exposed, chamiso-clad slopes. No water is available en route, so make sure you carry plenty--at least a quart per person.

Directions to trail head: Make your way to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, just off California 1, some 65 miles north of Hearst Castle and 30 miles south of Carmel. A mile south of the state park is a multi-agency information center that includes Caltrans, the U.S. Forest Service and California Parks. Stop by to get the latest road and trail conditions, as well as to obtain maps and brochures.

From the state park entrance station ($6 day-use fee), drive past the Big Sur Lodge and bear left on the park road leading to the picnic areas. Drive to the picnic ground at road’s end, where you’ll see the signed trail head for Mt. Manuel and other park trails.

The hike: Follow the park’s paved service road for the five-minute walk to Homestead Cabin. Homesteader John Pfeiffer and his family settled on the north side of the Big Sur River in 1884.

From the cabin (definitely cramped quarters), join signed Oak Grove Trail, which ascends past oaks and over-brushy slopes. A mellow half-mile climb brings you to the signed junction with Mt. Manuel Trail.

Bear right and tackle six switchbacks that climb coastal, scrub-dotted slopes. Reward for this steep bit of zigging and zagging is your first coastal view.

Even more compelling, as you climb east, is the sight and (in the wet season) the thunderous sound of the Big Sur River.

Though no sign announces your entrance, you do indeed enter the Ventana Wilderness. Periodic relief from the hot, chamiso-clad slopes comes in the form of a number of delightful gullies filled with shade-providing oaks, maples, bays and sycamores.

About three miles from the trail head, the path heads into a magical and rather mixed-up forest of live oak and madrone, tanbark oak and redwood. It’s the kind of dark (but not gloomy), fern-filled area where fairy tales take place.

Leaving the forest behind, you resume ascending brushy slopes for another quarter-mile to a ravine watered by a seasonal creek. Just past the creek crossing, a short side trail leads a few paces to a spring. Only in the very wettest winters does the spring flow.

Now you contour around dry slopes, getting yucca-framed views of the coast to the southwest, and the Big Sur landmark Ventana Double Cone to the northeast. After some more climbing past chamiso, ceanothus, toyon, yerba santa and other members of the chaparral community, you enter an oak woodland.

You emerge from the woods onto a ridge that offers coastal views. Ahead is a white reflector that marks Mt. Manuel’s viewpoint. The final stretch of trail zigzags up the mountain, then climbs through some Coulter pine to the viewpoint.

Enjoy your time at the top, particularly at the viewpoint, which offers better vistas than the actual top of Mt. Manuel directly to the north.

Mt. Manuel Trail continues another 13 miles, passing a number of trail camps on the way to Bottcher’s Gap, but you’ll return for the summit the way you came.

Mt. Manuel Trail Where: Los Padres National Forest, Big Sur Distance: 10 miles round trip, with 3,100-foot elevation gain. Terrain: Steep Santa Lucia Mountains, oak forest, redwoods. Highlights: One of Big Sur’s best viewpoints. Degree of difficulty: Strenuous. Precautions: There are ticks in the chaparral; check your clothing. For more information: Contact Big Sur Station No. 1, Big Sur, Calif. 93920, (408) 667-2315.