THE WINE LIST

John Sedlar’s highly flavored dishes cry out for full-bodied wines, so it’s a bit of a disappointment that Bikini’s wine list isn’t as creative as I’d have liked. But you can still have some fun.

The lovely Roederer Estate sparkling wine, $30, is excellent with most of the appetizers. If you order creamy entrees, a Chardonnay, 1991 Chalk Hill, $33, is rich enough. For those who seek something truly exotic, try Bonny Doon’s 1992 Le Sophiste, a Rhone blend, $65.

Well-seasoned dishes also call for lighter, flavorful red wines, which is why I’d steer clear of a powerful young Cabernet (which eliminates most of the list). Good choices would be 1991 Caymus Zinfandel, $22; 1990 Newton Merlot, $34, or the superb 1991 Acacia Pinot Noir, $30.

The list also offers 25 Burgundies and seven Italian red wines. Prices here aren’t bargain-basement, but they’re not excessively high either. The only problem we encountered: too long a wait to get the wine we ordered, and then the wrong bottle came.