Jazz Reviews : Bassist Bobby Haynes Makes a Few Requests of His Own : The quartet leader provides a fun, relaxed setting for the Spaghettini audience without compromising professionalism.

The fine art of the lounge band seldom is appreciated. Playing in tight quarters under noisy circumstances while servers hustle back and forth with drinks and food, the group often becomes part of the atmosphere, like the lighting or wall decorations, rather than the focus of the room.

It must be tempting for the musicians to treat their music as decoration as well: They can’t play too loud. Yet they have to be heard over the din of conversation and tinkling drink glasses.

Then there are the requests from the patrons for this song or that, tunes more likely than not missing from the repertoire and a far cry from the music the band specializes in.

The symbol that marks this kind of engagement, a large brandy snifter for tips in which a couple of dollar bills swim like goldfish, sits atop the piano. You can almost here someone saying, “Play it again, Sam.”

So credit Bobby Haynes with making the best of a less-than-perfect situation. The bassist’s quartet, playing at Spaghettini last weekend, didn’t take their task lightly, yet they managed to have a good time.

You’ve got requests? Haynes is glad to take them. You want to hear some serious music while the room’s activities swirl around you? These guys deliver.

Haynes has plenty of experience with the big time, having worked with everyone from Percy Mayfield and John Mayall to Chico Hamilton and Dexter Gordon. So it figures that his presentation, even in these relaxed circumstances, will be professional.

With him was veteran drummer Roscoe Riley, and well-seasoned saxophonist Clarence Webb, whose credits include singer Jimmy Witherspoon and the big band of Gerald Wilson. Pianist Rick Olson rounded out the foursome, and together they bring an extra touch of class to the comfortable surroundings.

The band signaled that it was out to have fun--without making musical compromises--in their opening number, “On Green Dolphin Street.”

Webb blew a relaxed, Dexter Gordon-styled improvisation that ended on a series of sky-high whistling tones. Olson explored the tune’s melodic content, before Haynes exploded into his solo, stringing together fleet strings of notes that roamed the entire range of his upright. Then the band joined in to take the tune out, with Webb adding lines from Dizzy Gillespie’s “Manteca” for good measure.

And so it went with a handful of standards, including “Summertime,” “Autumn Nocturne,” and Herbie Hancock’s “Cantaloupe Island.”

Someone in the crowd asked for some John Coltrane, and the quartet responded with a deliberate version of “Equinox.” Webb brought a brisk, rough-edged sound to his improv during the modal workout, while throwing in some Coltrane-esque overtones as well. Olson played accompaniment on the acoustic piano, but soloed on the electric set atop it.

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Another request came in, this time for “Moonglow.” Haynes and company resisted the temptation to play to the tune’s cornier side, instead treating it with moody respect. The bassist, still on upright (he also brings his electric bass to the gig), took advantage to deliver his most thoughtful, melodic solo.

Then Haynes brought out singer Jita Holsey, and she crooned in fine lounge style, “Teach Me Tonight” and “Since I Fell for You.” Jita (she prefers to use only her first name) is a nicely toned, competent vocalist who sings in direct fashion with a minimum of stylistic flourishes.

And she also knows how to work an audience, singing directly to various males at the front tables during “Since I Fell” while not offending their dates in the process.

Not every tune was as successful as these. Vince Guaraldi’s “Charlie Brown Theme” was played at an excruciatingly slow pace and without the bounce and spirit of the original. But this kind of uncertain delivery was the exception, not the rule.

* The Bobby Haynes Quartet, with vocalist Jita, continues tonight at 8 p.m. and every Saturday this month at Spaghettini, 3005 Old Ranch Parkway, Seal Beach. Free. (310) 596-2199.