Churros and Chocolate : Dip into this rich and decadent treat that has warmed the souls (and stomachs) of Madrilenos for generations

Just as Italians savor biscotti with espresso, and the British tea and crumpets, the people of Madrid embrace the tradition of hot chocolate with churros. This hearty duo, which may appear an unusual treat for an often warm climate, remains popular even as such Spanish customs as long lunches and siestas fall victim to the pace of modern life.

Intensely chocolate in flavor and so thick it generally requires a spoon, Spain’s hot chocolate is perfect for dunking churros--the greasy, deep-fried loops that are similar to doughnuts although denser and not quite as sweet. Sampled as a snack at almost any time of day or night, the combination is a tradition that appeals to all generations and socioeconomic backgrounds. In much the same way that Americans are raised on hot dogs and hamburgers, Spaniards delight in chocolate and churros. And they don’t bother worrying about the fat content.

While travelers can find churros in many places in Spain--at a street fair, in restaurants at merienda (the Spanish version of afternoon tea) or served in cafes with cafe con leche on Sunday mornings -- combining them with hot chocolate is a special Madrid observance. It is through this experience that you can see the local people in all their unadorned style.

No one seems sure just how or when chocolate and churros came to be popular in Spain, particularly in Madrid. But the tradition clearly reaches back into the 19th Century. According to “Guia del Buen Comer Espanol,” a book by Dionisio Perez that offers insights into the food and traditions of Spain, Madrid’s streets were full of churro makers hawking their wares at dawn during the 19th Century. And churros were even then commonly found in all-night chocolaterias.

What is certain is that this quintessential comfort food--commonly priced under $3 for the pair--warms the stomach and appeals to young and old, day or night.

While the snack tradition is popular all year long, it is particularly popular on New Year’s Eve when, as an almost obligatory finale after sunrise on Jan. 1, Madrilenos indulge themselves with this familiar nightcap. The unwitting tourist may well bump into them dressed in their party finery, tired from an evening of celebration, packing chocolaterias all over town.

On most other days of the year, however, the chocolaterias that are part of Madrid’s society are generally much easier to get into. In fact, there are many places in Madrid to sample chocolate and churros, and travelers should make a point to visit at least one.

In addition to being served in chocolaterias--which may also serve coffee, fresh orange juice and, oddly enough, even a few alcoholic beverages, such as Scotch, but not sandwiches or pastries--the other type of establishment in which to find them is a cafeteria/bar, which may also serve tapas and sandwiches, in addition to wine, alcohol and soft drinks.

After living here for about five years, I have learned to savor the pleasures of the experience in a variety of locations I can recommend. Here are a few of those I particularly enjoy.

Chocolateria San Gines is the capital’s most famous location for chocolate and churros and the place most locals mention when asked to recommend a spot where tourists will see celebrities, as well as locals, sampling chocolate and churros at all hours of the night. Tucked away in a tiny alley just two blocks from the city’s original center, Puerta del Sol, about three blocks east of the famous Plaza Mayor, this charming spot is open from 1 to 7 a.m.(on Friday and Saturday it is also open 7 to 10 p.m. with hours extended during the December holidays from 7 p.m. to morning), attracting a crowd that embraces the night.

Julio Iglesias, Paloma Picasso, Baron Hans Heinrich Thyssen, Mickey Rourke and members of Spain’s royal family have been known to pop in. This happens often after discos close, especially the chic Joy-Eslava next door that just happens to be owned by the Pasadizo Co., the same company that owns San Gines.

But it’s not just the famous, nor those dressed to kill in disco finery, who fill the enchanting space made up of the main floor and basement of this 19th-Century building, which was remodeled in 1986 with marble-top tables and sparkling brass fixtures, track lights and an intruding marble statue parked near the entrance. San Gines is a magnet for anyone finishing up a late dinner or catching a show or midnight movie, not to mention the city’s barhoppers. Many feel the night is incomplete until they’ve partaken of this familiar childhood snack. “As a child, I drank hot chocolate at home with my family,” said one student who was lingering with his date on velvet cushions in the cozy cellar.

He is not alone in his dedication to the experience. “I’ve seen people come around 1 a.m. and stay until we close,” said one waiter. That leaves just enough time for a shower and a change of clothes before heading to the office. But this is not unheard of for Madrilenos who love the night.

For those who prefer their chocolate and churros for breakfast--and there are plenty--there are other locales. Two of them, A. Domingo and San Miguel, are attractive to those rushing off to work, though there are significant differences between the two.

In stark contrast to San Gines, which is chic enough to appeal to the in-crowd, A. Domingo is Spartan, unadorned . . . the kind of place locals tend to visit because they went there with their parents.

This family-run chocolateria--in a middle-class residential area about a 10-minute walk east of the Rastro--has relied on the same recipes since its doors opened in 1903. Today the founder’s grandson, Justo Domingo, prepares the churros in the kitchen area adjacent to the bar. At the tiny counter and bare tables, Domingo’s siblings and their spouses serve hot chocolate in simple drinking glasses in much the same way their grandfather did 90 years ago. It is a family kind of place: unsophisticated and beguiling in its simplicity.

Because there are only a handful of tables, the atmosphere is hurried and crowded, particularly during the midmorning hours. Saturday and Sunday are more hectic still. “It’s like the local department stores on the weekends,” Justo Domingo said. But worth any wait.

Chocolateria San Miguel--across from the Mercado San Miguel, one of the city’s oldest remaining covered markets--also experiences its share of midmorning bustle but this non-family-run business is less than 2 years old. Yet great attention was paid to old-style ambience in this below-ground chocolateria, which is lightened by a row of street-level windows. It is decorated with tapestries in 17th- and 18th-Century style and has an attractive terra-cotta floor topped by a large U-shaped bar surrounded by a scatter of little tables. Overall, it’s a good match for Madrid’s young, upwardly mobile professionals. Madrilenos interested in holing up in a corner can, with effort, distance themselves from the crowd and couples lingering over the Spanish daily newspaper El Pais, while those especially keen on quick service tend to snatch stools at the bar.

Unlike A. Domingo, which is open only in the morning, San Miguel also serves in the afternoons and evenings, from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., which makes it a good spot for Madrilenos partaking of the between-meal snack merienda that often includes chocolate and churros.

There are numerous other locations in Madrid where chocolate and churros can be savored during merienda or breakfast but few are solely chocolaterias. Instead, they tend to be bars or cafeterias that happen to serve the familiar combination interspersed with alcoholic drinks and tapas . Some are outstanding.

Among the best places to imbibe, early morning, is in a humble little cafeteria in the Hotel Aitana on the famous main thoroughfare, Paseo de la Castellana. It is one of Madrid’s best-kept secrets.

While some might think this hotel a bit gloomy, with its aging carpets and dim lighting, regulars don’t seem to mind. The old-style open kitchen serves as entertainment for those who sit at the counter, although there are perhaps half a dozen tables nearby.

At another place, not far from the Rastro, Madrid’s flea market, Cafeteria Peyma draws a range of Madrilenos, especially on weekend mornings. The crowd appears to overflow directly from the Rastro into this long, narrow cafeteria that boasts an open kitchen. Clean and modern, Peyma has a hint of Art Deco in its decoration. Its churros are fresh, prepared in the morning from 6 a.m. to noon and later from 5 to 7 p.m. It is not unusual to stand at the bar and see customers elbow-to-elbow dunking their churros, almost in unison.

El Diamante, a 25-year-old chain of three bars, is another spot where a good cross-section of Madrid congregates. Its large, U-shaped counter wraps around the cafeteria, which also serves tapas . Spacious and noisy, El Diamante is neither quaint nor attractive. But that doesn’t deter the crowds. In the morning and afternoon, customers can watch churros being made as they stand around the bar enjoying their warming snack.

Whether you find yourself bargain-hunting in the Rastro on Sunday morning, dancing until dawn on a Saturday night or just lost in the tiny streets of old Madrid, you are likely to stumble upon this snack and the generations of Madrilenos who continue to enjoy it. Even if you customarily worry about watching your figure, it is best to indulge . . . at least if you want to learn what the locals are up to.

GUIDEBOOK: Getting Sweet on Madrid

A. Domingo, Calle Embajadores, 76; tel. 517-0199. Closed Mondays and August; 6 a.m.-12:30 p.m.

Cafeteria Peyma, Calle Embajadores, 39; tel. 467-1369. Daily 6-11 a.m., 5:30-7 p.m.

Chocolateria San Gines, Pasadizo de San Gines, 5; tel. 265-6546. Closed Monday (except during the Christmas holidays, when they are open every night from 7 p.m. to 7 a.m.); 1-7 a.m. Sunday-Saturday, also 7-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.

Chocolateria San Miguel, Calle del Conde de Miranda; tel. 542-8935. Monday-Thursday 7 a.m.-1 p.m., 5:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday to midnight; Sunday 5:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.

El Diamante, (three locations) Calle Bravo Murillo, 143, tel. 533-0429; Calle Toledo, 67, tel. 365-0836; Paseo de las Delicias, 31, tel. 530-6710. Daily 7:30 a.m.-12 p.m., 5 p.m.-8 p.m.

Hotel Aitana cafeteria, Paseo de la Castellana, 152; tel. 344-1142. Closed Sunday; Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m.-11:30 a.m. and 5:30 p.m.-7 p.m.; Saturday, mornings only.

For more information: National Tourist Office of Spain, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960, Beverly Hills 90211; tel. (213) 658-7188.