Okra: Beyond the Slime

Let’s get one thing straight: Okra doesn’t have to be slimy.

True, this graceful green vegetable has a reputation for being as sticky as swamp muck. That’s because okra contains mucilaginous starches that can be off-putting to neophytes. This very property endears the vegetable to African, Caribbean and Louisianian cooks, who use it as a thickener. But there are many dishes in which okra remains as snappily crisp as the choicest al dente green bean.

Okra comes from Africa. Like yams and peanuts, it was brought to the Americas in the cramped hulls of the African slave ships. The word okra derives from Nigeria and the Guinea coast, where it is known as nkru-ma , oguru , etc. Many languages of Angola call the vegetable ngombo , which survives in the name of the popular Louisiana dish gumbo.

Despite its use as a vegetable, okra belongs to the mallow family and is a distant cousin of cotton. Its scientific name is Hibiscus esculentus , “edible hibiscus,” and it’s recognizable by its pretty golden flowers. Today, okra is enjoyed throughout Africa, the Near East, the Caribbean, Central and South America and the American South. Northerners, however, remain skeptical at best.

I say it’s time to give okra a second chance. The flavor of this unusual vegetable hints of green beans and asparagus but is more earthy than either. The texture is crisp on the outside and softly sticky inside.

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Okra is a finger-shaped pod, two inches to six inches long, with a hexagonal cap at one end and lengthwise ribs that taper to a slender point at the other end. Mindful of its attractive shape, the English call it “lady finger.” If you think the vegetable looks pretty when whole, try slicing it widthwise. The resulting rounds look like miniature wagon wheels with tiny round seeds between the spokes.

In traditional Southern cooking, okra would be stewed for several hours, reducing it to mush. The starchy gums and pectins in the vegetable served as a thickener for soups and stews. Okra is still used this way in Louisiana gumbo and West Indian fungi (also called funchi , a cornmeal and okra mush). Cutting or slicing the pod increases its stickiness.

The best way to keep okra crisp is by pickling it or by deep-frying it in tempura batter or cornmeal. A new generation of Southern chefs has taken to serving okra al dente. They blanch the vegetable in boiling, salted water for a minute or two, then quickly chill in ice water. Prepared this way, okra is great for dipping in tartar or hollandaise sauce. It also makes a delicious addition to salads.

When buying okra, look for small, crisp, bright-green pods, two inches to three inches long. Avoid jumbo okra or pods that are wilted or streaked with black. Store okra in the refrigerator and try to use it within two to three days of purchase. One pound of okra will serve three to four people.

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Rinse okra thoroughly under cold water before cooking. Cut off the end of the stem, but leave the cap intact.

Okra is relatively low in calories (454 calories per pound) and high in fiber, vitamins A and C and potassium. It also contains traces of calcium, iron and folic acid. According to Carol Ann Rinzler, author of “The Complete Food Book” (World Almanac), the gums and pectins in okra may help lower serum cholesterol levels.

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These crisp pickles are just the ticket for making believers out of people who have had bad experiences with okra. Far from being slimy, they’re crispier and crunchier than most cucumber pickles.

OKRA PICKLES

1 pound small okra

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1 to 2 fresh or dried red chiles

2 cups white vinegar

1 cup water

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon dill seeds

1/2 teaspoon celery seeds

Rinse and trim okra. Place in 1 or 2 clean jars along with garlic and chiles.

Combine vinegar, water, salt, sugar, bay leaves, peppercorns, coriander seeds, dill seeds and celery seeds in saucepan and bring to boil. Pour mixture over okra. Place coffee cup or tightly sealed water-filled plastic food bag on top to keep okra submerged.

Let pickled okra stand at room temperature at least 2 days or as long as 1 week. (They are ready to eat after 2 days.) Store pickled okra in refrigerator. Makes 1 quart.