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Throw Another Shrimp in the Sauce

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Many shoppers buy pre-cooked shrimp at the supermarket--it seems so much easier to handle than raw. But shrimp that you cook yourself has far better flavor and texture than the pre-cooked sort.

And shrimp is one of the fastest-cooking foods you can buy. It’s easier to shell than most shellfish, and it’s less difficult in the pan than many fish since it doesn’t fall apart when stirred.

An easy technique is to cook shrimp directly in a sauce. It’s faster and simpler than the classic way of cooking in seasoned water, draining, then making a separate sauce. Besides, the shrimp gain flavor from the sauce as they cook. They are done when the outer surface of their flesh turns pink and the inside becomes white.

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This method is perfect for low-fat cooking--as long as you prepare a light sauce, such as a tomato sauce or a stock- or wine-based sauce. Shrimp blend well with spicy or delicate flavors, so I flavor the sauces with herbs or spices to suit my mood. I prefer basil, cilantro, garlic, thyme, cumin, saffron and red pepper flakes because they quickly lend a lively taste to the sauce without requiring long simmering.

Sauced shrimp is delicious served over rice, couscous, orzo or fine noodles. You don’t even have to worry about reducing the sauce to thicken it; it will be absorbed by the rice or pasta anyway. Naturally, by spooning the shrimp over rice or pasta you can serve fewer shrimp, so the dish is more economical.

At the store you will notice that shrimp may be labeled with a number, such as 31/35; this means 31 to 35 shrimp make one pound and is a more precise indication of size than “medium” or “large.” The higher the number, the smaller the shrimp. I find about 30 per pound, which is often called “large,” is a convenient size--large enough so there are not too many shrimp to peel but more moderately priced than “jumbo” shrimp.

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Garlic, cumin, hot pepper flakes and fresh basil give these shrimp a robust flavor. Diced canned tomatoes--especially during those times of the year when great fresh tomatoes are out of season--make this sauce a snap.

QUICK SHRIMP IN SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 large cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans diced tomatoes, drained, juice reserved

Salt, pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried leaf thyme

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound large shrimp (30 to 35), shelled and deveined

3 tablespoons shredded fresh basil

Heat oil in large saute pan. Add garlic and saute 1 minute over low heat. Stir in cumin, tomatoes and 1/2 cup reserved juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in thyme and hot red pepper flakes. Bring to simmer. Cover and cook over low heat 5 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add 2 to 3 tablespoons juice from tomatoes.

Stir in shrimp. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. To check, cut through thick end of 1 shrimp. It should be white throughout. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve sprinkled with basil. Makes 4 servings.

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White wine is the secret ingredient in this colorful dish. Serve these shrimp on a bed of rice or orzo for a beautiful entree.

SHRIMP IN RED PEPPER-SAFFRON SAUCE

1 tablespoon water

1 1/2 teaspoons potato starch

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large sweet red pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup bottled clam juice or homemade or frozen fish stock

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

1/2 pound large shrimp (30 to 35 per pound), shelled and deveined

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

Place water in small bowl. Add potato starch and let dissolve. Set aside.

Heat oil in medium saute pan. Add sweet red pepper and saute 5 minutes over medium heat. Add wine, clam juice and saffron threads. Bring to boil. Cover and simmer 5 minutes over low heat. Stir potato starch mixture to blend. Add to sauce, stirring constantly. Bring to simmer, stirring.

Stir in shrimp. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer over low heat until shrimp change color, 3 to 4 minutes. To check whether shrimp are done, cut through thick end of 1 shrimp. It should be white throughout. Stir green onion into sauce. Adjust seasonings to taste. Makes 2 servings.

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