Is It Time to Eschew the Fat for Good?

First, movie theater popcorn. Then, kung pao chicken. And now, beef burritos.

The Center for Science in the Public Interest this week released its findings that the fat, saturated fat and sodium content of some Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine exceeds the daily limits recommended by the federal government. In recent years, many restaurants have stopped using fat-laden ingredients like lard, and supermarkets stock baked, not fried, tortilla chips and fat-free frijoles. Meanwhile, the taste for a guacamole and sour cream smeared burrito or enchilada is still alive and well.

Should people change their eating habits because of the Center for Science in the Public Interest findings about Mexican food?

Dana Butler, spokeswoman for the American Heart Assn.:

“Fat is a known contributor to heart disease, whether it comes from Mexican food or French food, and a very modifiable one. The heart association has information about how to make Mexican food heart-healthy in a brochure, ‘How to Modify Cooking Styles and Ingredients.’ The goal is not to deprive people of their favorite foods, but rather to help them make healthy choices, and maybe (help them become) informed consumers so they can ask questions at restaurants like: ‘Do you have fat-free beans?’

“The AHA supports a diet of your total fat intake to be less than 30% of the calories you take in. Heart disease is the No. 1 cause of death. It has so much to do with prevention. You can call the heart association for a brochure called ‘Making Mexican Food Heart-Healthy’ at 1-800-AHA-USA1.”

Debbie Neal, manager of The Elegant Tortilla, a Mexican restaurant in Studio City:

“I think that’s kind of stupid. There’s a lot of other foods that aren’t good for you. Chinese food has a lot of sodium. I don’t know why they’re attacking this issue. Everything here is very healthy. A lot of healthy vegetarian people eat here. (Some people) are looking for the Mexican food that they’re used to, but we don’t serve it because we haven’t found a way to cook them without frying them. We only fry our chips and tortilla shells. . . . You pay a little more here, but it’s the best quality of food. A lot people complain about (the lack of fried foods here) but this is not (a fast-food restaurant).

Miguel Escobar, spokesman for the Mexican Consulate General in Los Angeles:

“Every clinical study should be given some time in order to prove its worthiness. I think one of the healthiest of cuisines is Mexican food. They have a lot healthy foods prepared in so many ways. . . . Things should be taken with a pinch of salt, to use an Anglo expression. This research should be given time to check its truth. . . . Burritos or chimichangas have Mexican origin, but it’s done a bit differently in the States than they are done in Mexico. Burritos used to be done with shredded meat, which, in my recollection, did not have much grease. Just a tortilla and meat and it’s very tasty. But I might be partial, because I do like burritos.”

Richard Hallon, manager of Mexican Food, a Granada Hills fast-food restaurant:

“Well, I don’t think so. First of all, (at my restaurant) we don’t use lard. Most of the places are not using lard any more. The beans have a lot of protein, but we put a little oil in there. And all the meat we use is lean. Mexican food is very nutritious. Chiles have a lot of Vitamin C in them. Basically, the food is very, very healthy. . . . We specialize in tacos and burritos, not in refried things like chimichangas. That dish is from Texas. It’s not really Mexican. . . . Our tacos are as healthy as Chinese bean cakes.”