New Vietnamese Cuisine : Good Morning, Vietnam : Food: A new political openness in Vietnam has led to a renaissance in cooking.

Lately the area around Cho Ben Thanh Market has been booming. Sidewalk vendors are hawking luscious fruits, luring pedestrians by holding up picture-perfect samples: plump mangoes, star fruit, custard apples, sweet longans, smelly durian. Crowds gather around freshly picked vegetables, heaped in mountainous piles, still glistening from the fields. Freshly baked baguettes, meticulously arranged in pyramids, sell at a brisk pace.

The rest of Ho Chi Minh City is thriving too. All over town, seas of scooters, cyclos (a bicyle version of the pedicab), ‘60s-era American sedans and the latest Japanese cars form traffic bottlenecks around the numerous construction sites where hotels, office buildings, restaurants and high-rise structures are being erected. The rate of progress is daunting.

Not long ago, of course, life was not so upbeat. After the Communist takeover in 1975, Saigon retreated into a bleak, gray existence. The entire country limped along as government officials attempted to reinstate a ravaged economy.

One still sees reminders of this period throughout the country, and Hanoi is several paces behind Ho Chi Minh City. Market shelves nationwide were rather barren until 1986, when the Sixth Party Congress adopted sweeping economic reforms that encouraged small-scale private enterprise and foreign investment and loosened agricultural policies on individual farming practices. Almost overnight, market stalls, food stands, shops, small restaurants and hotels sprang up.

Binh Duong, chef-owner of Truc Orient Express restaurant in Hartford, Conn., and co-author of “The Simple Art of Vietnamese Cuisine” (Prentice Hall: 1991), has returned five times since he left in 1975 and has monitored the changes carefully. “The first time I returned to Ho Chi Minh City in 1988,” he says, “I was a little disappointed in the food. All the good ingredients were exported. We ate some decent things in small places near the markets, but the rest was grim.

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“On my next trip 10 months later, things were unbelievably different. The whole city was changing.”

Today, Vietnam is like China after the Cultural Revolution. Ho Chi Minh City is a new Asian boom-town. The lifting of the U.S. trade embargo last February merely heightened the trend, and all aspects of the Vietnamese culture are beginning to feel the benefits--especially in the area of food.

For the first time in many years, restaurants (and not just street stalls) are besieged with customers. Fabulous ingredients are now in plentiful supply and residents are reporting that cuisine is finally returning to the level of refinement it enjoyed before 1975.

There are also new restaurants, many of which are the offspring of returning Vietnamese. A few, in addition to reproducing classic Vietnamese dishes, are introducing a repertory of innovative dishes, combining culinary influences from several cultures. Some might christen it the birth of the new Vietnamese cuisine.

At the Merlion restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnamese, Chinese and Singaporean elements converge on a menu that offers grilled prawn paste on sugar cane, spring rolls, simmered prawns in coconut juice, chile crab and steamed black chicken with Chinese herbs.

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At Le Mekong, a converted villa several streets away, haute French reigns, but there is a hint of Vietnamese influence in dishes like fresh prawns sauteed with lime and garlic butter and chicken with lime sauce.

This growing interest in innovative Vietnamese cooking is not exclusive to Ho Chi Minh City. In fact, the movement is far more advanced abroad.

Last year, Clayton Parker, who is director of operations for Elite Concepts, a restaurant development firm in Hong Kong, oversaw the creation and opening of the sophisticated Hong Kong Vietnamese restaurant, Indochine 1929.

The restaurant, Parker says, came about as a result of the current fascination with all things Vietnamese. Parker, his head chef, Lai Kam Yuen, and manager Aline Ho made several tasting trips to Vietnam to research the new venture.

They found a cuisine in transition--a new sophistication is in evidence, but there are still signs of the post-war past.

“Right now generally in Vietnam, things are still coming from an environment of survival and scarcity,” Parker says. “They’ve been busy just trying to make things right again with the basics sold in food stalls.”

At first, the menu at Indochine 1929 emphasized classic Vietnamese cuisine, but that quickly changed. Parker and his head chef have been developing “new” cross-cultural dishes. They especially want the menu to be product-inspired since they import an extensive selection of ingredients directly from Vietnam twice a week.

At Indochine 1029, customers can now sample such eclectic items as duckling a l’orange , stir-fried beef with Asian turnip and fresh mint, gratineed mussels with fresh thyme and roulade of minced shrimp wrapped in seaweed. The menu also offers several classic versions of the northern Vietnamese specialty cha ca (Hanoi-style fried fish with turmeric, fresh dill, rice vermicelli and peanuts), as well as the traditional southern Vietnamese deep-fried soft-shell crabs with salt and pepper.

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Even in its traditional form, regional Vietnamese is fairly eclectic, incorporating diverse influences from its neighbors. Nicole Routhier, author of “The Foods of Vietnam” (Stewart, Tabori & Chang: 1989) and “Cooking Under Wraps (William Morrow: 1993), is very knowledgeable about classic Vietnamese cuisine--she was born in Vietnam. Her mother, who cooked professionally, was native Vietnamese and her father was French.

“In the north, because of the cool climate, the food tends to be a bit hearty,” Routhier explains. Pork and beef are popular in soups and stews. “ Pho bac is one of the most famous specialties. It’s an oxtail soup flavored with cinnamon, star anise, ginger, onions and shallots, garnished with rice noodles, bean sprouts, fresh basil and mint.”

The Chinese influence also extends to the use of chopsticks as well as stir-frying, steaming and deep-frying in a wok. Ingredients like soy sauce, ginger root, noodles and tofu are also common. Food tends to be less spicy and even plainer in the northern part of the country than in the south.

As you move toward the center of Vietnam, near the ancient capital of Hue, the food becomes much more refined. Since Hue was the imperial center of the country, many of the dishes reflect the sophisticated palate of the court. Dishes are spicier as well. According to Routhier, Hue cooks tend to saute fresh chile peppers with tomato paste to give foods, especially soups, a bright red color. Ravioli, dumplings and noodles are especially popular.

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In the south, the food becomes livelier still, reflecting the additional influence from Thailand, India, Laos and Cambodia. “The cooking of southern Vietnam is incredibly dynamic,” says Routhier. “The food combines wonderful herbs and seasonings like lemon grass, fish sauce, chile pepper, mint, cilantro, fresh cumin and exotic fruits such as tamarind, papaya, green papaya and mangoes. All types of seafood, chicken and pork are common staples and stir-frying and barbecuing are extremely popular.”

Southern Vietnamese food also reflects a fairly strong French influence due to the French rule that lasted close to a century. Strawberries, asparagus, artichokes, olive oil, butter, breads and pastries were some of the imports. Routhier suggests that northerners were resistant to outside influences, whereas southern Vietnamese embraced them, resulting in a style of cooking there that is refined, yet inventive.

Perhaps it is this same southern receptiveness to new ideas that sparks her own creativity. While Routhier has established a solid reputation as an authority on classic Vietnamese cuisine, her cooking is seen as being highly innovative. “Waverly Root said something to the effect that a great cuisine cannot develop within its own narrow limits,” she says. “It needs to draw inspiration from a variety of sources. I don’t like to pigeonhole my style and label it Vietnamese, French or Asian. I prefer to call it American since it incorporates so many elements.”

Along this vein, Routhier takes a thin Vietnamese crepe made with rice flour, coconut milk, turmeric and curry, then stuffs it with a non-classic mixture of grilled chicken, caramelized onions and Parmesan cheese. She rolls soft rice wrappers around a filling of smoked turkey, tomatoes, lettuce and fresh basil, then drizzles it with a creamy basil vinaigrette. Whole roasted chicken is flavored with lemon grass, and sumptuous creme caramel is seasoned with coconut milk.

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Like Routhier, Binh Duong is a southern Vietnamese cook in the United States intent on shaping classic Vietnamese cuisine to his own style. Through his two restaurants (in addition to his Hartford restaurant, Duong has another in Boca Raton, Fla.), Duong has established a national reputation for his unique creations.

He makes classic specialties such as charcoal-broiled beef in la lot leaves, and spicy tamarind squid, and also unusual dishes like roasted duck salad with Holland peppers and a fresh dill dressing, fried soft-shell crabs with honey-mustard sauce and chicken sorrel soup. Duong also likes to grill swordfish that has been marinated in lemon grass, garlic, olive oil and fish sauce, and steam shrimp seasoned with turmeric, coconut milk, curry paste and chile peppers, then served with fresh basil leaves. For dessert he serves apple tart, or chocolate or lemon mousse.

Duong’s innovative style developed due to resourcefulness and necessity. One of his first concerns, even before he entered the United States, was the availability of Vietnamese ingredients.

“When we were in the camps, before we even came into the country, I called my sister--who was already here--to see what you could get,” he says. “She lived in Hartford, Conn., and she had to go to New York Chinatown then to get fish sauce.”

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As a result, Duong likes to feature ingredients of the area where he works. New England offers great seafood--like his native village, Nha Trang, which is on the coast--so seafood is one of his menu’s strengths. Fresh Maine lobster is smothered in a spicy tomato sauce and sea scallops are sauteed in fresh orange juice. Flounder is available steamed in its own juices, deep-fried in a sweet-and-sour sauce, or sauteed with shrimp, and scallops with garlic and fresh tomato.

Although his first visits to Vietnam were disappointing, Duong has been heartened by the recent progress in Vietnam, particularly in Ho Chi Minh City. On a two-month trip this past spring, he was particularly excited by the state of the culinary arts.

“Every time I have been there in the last two years, the changes have been remarkable,” he says. “I think the next five years are going to be incredible. The food is just going to get better and even more exciting. The economy is improving rapidly and Europe has once again come to Vietnam.

“Right now chefs are intent on re-establishing standards, but I feel we are on the verge of seeing a new style developing that embraces the new ingredients and the new ideas being introduced to the country.”

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At his restaurant in Hartford, Conn., chef Binh Duong works with American ingredients to create Vietnamese dishes. Swordfish is marinated with lemon grass, garlic, olive oil and fish sauce, then grilled. Here, steamed shrimp is spiced with turmeric, coconut milk, curry paste and chiles.

BINH DUONG’S STEAMED SHRIMP CURRY

1 shallot, minced

1 fresh red chile pepper, minced, or 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon curry paste or powder

1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 tablespoons unsweetened coconut milk

2 dozen medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

24 small fresh basil leaves, preferably Thai basil

Combine shallot, chile, salt, sugar, curry and turmeric in mortar or food processor fitted with steel blade. Pound with pestle or process to make paste.

Mix spice paste with coconut milk in large shallow bowl. Add shrimp and coat well with spice mixture. Marinate 20 minutes at room temperature.

Arrange shrimp in heat-proof pie plate or quiche pan. Heat water until boiling in saucepan or wok. Place pie plate in colander or steamer basket over water, cover and steam just until shrimp turn pink, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Remove shrimp from steamer and place basil leaf on each. Serve hot. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings.

Each serving contains about:

51 calories; 239 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.26 gram fiber.

BINH DUONG’S GRILLED LEMON GRASS SWORDFISH WITH VEGETABLES

1 1/4 teaspoons freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce (nuoc mam)

5 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh lemon grass or 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

3 shallots, minced

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 (1/2-pound) swordfish steaks, about 1 inch thick

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

10 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

1/3 cup red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar

1 sweet red pepper, cut into thick slices

2 yellow squash, ends trimmed and cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick

1 zucchini, ends trimmed and cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick

1 medium-sized red onion, cut into quarters

8 asparagus, trimmed and bases peeled

8 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed

About 2 hours before grilling swordfish, combine 1 teaspoon pepper, fish sauce, 3 cloves minced garlic, lemon grass, shallots and olive oil in bowl. Pour mixture over swordfish in shallow bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate.

About 1/2 hour before grilling, combine salt, remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper, sugar, remaining 2 cloves minced garlic, basil and vinegar in shallow bowl. Add red pepper, squash, zucchini, onion, asparagus and mushrooms. Toss to coat. Let stand 30 minutes.

Prepare hot fire for grilling or broiler. Arrange vegetables 3 inches from heat and grill on each side until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to warm plate and continue grilling vegetables. Arrange swordfish on grill and cook on each side until cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Place fish on platter and arrange vegetables around fish. Serve hot or warm. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

379 calories; 633 mg sodium; 71 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 39 grams protein; 1.71 grams fiber.

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The following two recipes are based on dishes I recently tasted in Vietnam. Both use ingredients that are available in most upscale grocery stores and Asian markets throughout Southern California.

RICE NOODLE SALAD WITH GRILLED CHICKEN

1 1/2 pounds boneless chicken breasts, skin removed

4 stalks lemon grass, ends trimmed and cut into 4-inch lengths

3 shallots, trimmed

3/4 cup fish sauce (nuoc mam)

7 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon corn or safflower oil

3/4 pound very fine rice stick noodles or vermicelli

2 cups finely shredded carrots

2 cups bean sprouts

1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

Juice 5 lemons

1 1/2 tablespoons finely minced garlic

1/2 cup chopped dry-roasted peanuts

1/4 cup minced fresh mint

1/4 cup minced fresh basil

Soak 20 (10-inch) bamboo skewers in water to cover about 1 hour.

Remove any fat or gristle from chicken. Holding cleaver at 45-degree angle, cut chicken into wide, thin slices about 1/4 inch thick. Place slices in bowl.

In food processor fitted with steel blade, while machine is running, add lemon grass, shallots, 1/4 cup fish sauce, 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, then oil. Process, turning machine on and off, until finely chopped. Add marinade to chicken pieces, toss lightly to coat, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 hours. Thread chicken slices onto soaked bamboo skewers.

Soften rice noodles in cold water to cover about 20 minutes. Heat 2 quarts water until boiling, add rice noodles and cook 2 to 3 minutes until just cooked. Drain in colander and rinse under cold, running water. Drain again. Arrange cooked noodles on platter, sprinkling carrots and bean sprouts in separate concentric circles on top. Leave space in center for chicken.

Prepare dressing by soaking crushed red pepper in lemon juice several minutes. Add garlic, remaining 5 1/2 tablespoons sugar and remaining 1/2 cup fish sauce. Stir to dissolve sugar. Transfer to serving bowl.

Arrange chicken 3 inches from source of heat and grill or broil about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from skewers and arrange over noodles. Sprinkle top with chopped peanuts, mint and basil. Serve dressing on side. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

474 calories; 417 mg sodium; 49 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 76 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 1.57 grams fiber.

SCALLION NOODLES

1/4 cup safflower or corn oil

6 green onions, ends trimmed and cut into thin shreds about 3 inches long

1 pound thin rice stick noodles

1 1/2 cups finely shredded carrots

1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger root

2 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

Pepper

1/4 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup coarsely chopped dry-roasted peanuts

Heat oil in medium-size saucepan with tight-fitting lid to about 350 degrees. Add green onions (they should sizzle vigorously), cover, and remove from heat. Let oil stand 20 minutes.

Meanwhile soften rice noodles in cold water to cover about 20 minutes. Heat 3 quarts water until boiling. Add rice noodles and cook until just done, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse in colander under cold, running water. Drain again and cut into 4-inch sections. Place noodles in large bowl.

Add green-onion oil, shredded carrots, minced ginger root, cilantro, pepper to taste, soy sauce and lemon juice. Toss lightly to coat. Sprinkle crushed peanuts on top. Serve as side dish with grilled or stir-fried seafood or meat. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

405 calories; 688 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 71 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.71 gram fiber.

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This recipe was adapted from Routhier’s “Cooking Under Wraps” (William Morrow).

ROLLED SALAD OF SMOKED TURKEY WITH BASIL DRESSING

2 2/3 cups tightly packed fresh basil leaves, shredded

2 medium eggs

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 cup rice vinegar

1 cup vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 pound angel hair pasta

1 large carrot, peeled and finely shredded

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into fine julienne strips

4 large Boston lettuce leaves, cut in thin shreds

1 large tomato, seeded and cut in thin strips

1 cup fresh bean sprouts, rinsed and drained

1 pound smoked turkey breast, cut in 32 very thin slices

16 (8-inch) round sheets Vietnamese rice paper (bah trang)

Place 2/3 cup basil, eggs, mustard, garlic, sugar and vinegar in blender or food processor fitted with steel blade. Process until basil is finely pureed. With motor running, gradually add oil and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer dressing to small bowl or jar, cover and refrigerate.

Bring 2 quarts of salted water to rolling boil. Drop in pasta and cook 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Drain in colander and set in sink. Refresh in cold, running water, then drain thoroughly. Using scissors, cut pasta into 5- to 6-inch lengths.

Place pasta in mixing bowl and add carrot, cucumber, tomato, remaining 2 cups basil, lettuce and bean sprouts.

Roll 2 slices of smoked turkey into cigar shape. Repeat with remaining slices to make 15 more rolls.

Fill large bowl with hot water. Spread clean, damp kitchen towel on work surface. Work with only 1 sheet of rice paper at time, keeping remaining sheets covered with barely damp cloth to prevent curling. Immerse sheet of rice paper in hot water 2 seconds. Remove from water and place on kitchen towel. Rice paper will become pliable within seconds.

Pack handful of mixed salad along bottom of rice sheet, about 2 inches away from edge. Top salad with turkey roll. Fold both sides of wrapper over filling. Tightly roll rice paper and filling up into neat, tight cylinder.

Place roll seam side down on tray and cover with damp towel to keep moist as you fill remaining wrappers. (Sealed in plastic food bags, rolls may be prepared up to 2 hours before serving. Do not refrigerate or rice crepes will harden and tear.)

To serve, cut rolls crosswise in half or into bite-size pieces, sushi-fashion. Ladle some dressing onto cold plates and arrange cut-up rolls over dressing. Dip rolls into dressing and eat out of hand. Makes 16 rolls, or 8 first courses or light entrees.

Note : Vietnamese rice paper (bah trang) is available at Asian markets.

Each serving contains about:

215 calories; 163 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

Note : Although many recipes call for uncooked eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has found them to be a potential carrier of food-borne illness and recommends that diners avoid eating raw eggs. Commercial egg substitutes that have been pasturized may be used in place of raw eggs in certain circumstances. Check egg substitute package for applications.

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This recipe is adapted from Routhier’s “The Foods of Vietnam” (Stewart, Tabori & Chang).

COCONUT FLAN WITH CARAMEL

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup hot water

1 cup fresh or canned unsweetened coconut milk

1 cup milk

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Make caramel by cooking 1/4 cup sugar in small heavy saucepan over low heat, swirling pan constantly, until brown. Stir hot water into caramel, being careful to guard against splattering (mixture will bubble vigorously). Boil mixture, swirling pan occasionally, until sugar is thoroughly dissolved, about 2 minutes.

Pour caramel syrup into 1-quart souffle dish. Tilt molds to coat all surfaces with caramel.

Make custard by combining coconut milk, milk and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in medium saucepan over low heat. Scald until sugar dissolves completely. Remove from heat.

Whisk eggs and vanilla in large bowl. Gradually whisk hot coconut milk mixture into eggs, blending thoroughly. Strain custard through fine sieve into bowl. Carefully pour into caramel-lined souffle dish.

Line large roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Put souffle dish or ramekins in roasting pan and add hot water to reach halfway up side of dish. Bake in center of oven a 325 degrees until knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Be careful not to let water boil. Do not disturb custard while baking.

Remove souffle dish immediately from hot water. Allow to cool in cold-water bath. Chill thoroughly.

To serve, run knife around edge of custard and turn out onto dessert plates. Serve with shaved ice or whipped cream, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

208 calories; 67 mg sodium; 145 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.82 gram fiber.

In photo of scallion noodles and rolled salad of smoked turkey and shrimp curry, saki set, rectangular plate and bowl are from Bristol Farms Cook ‘N’ things, South Pasadena.

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At his restaurant in Hartford, Conn., chef Binh Duong works with American ingredients to create Vietnamese dishes. Swordfish is marinated with lemon grass, garlic, olive oil and fish sauce, then grilled. Here, steamed shrimp is spiced with turmeric, coconut milk, curry paste and chiles.

BINH DUONG’S STEAMED SHRIMP CURRY

1 shallot, minced

1 fresh red chile pepper, minced, or 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon curry paste or powder

1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 tablespoons unsweetened coconut milk

2 dozen medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

24 small fresh basil leaves, preferably Thai basil

Combine shallot, chile, salt, sugar, curry and turmeric in mortar or food processor fitted with steel blade. Pound with pestle or process to make paste.

Mix spice paste with coconut milk in large shallow bowl. Add shrimp and coat well with spice mixture. Marinate 20 minutes at room temperature.

Arrange shrimp in heat-proof pie plate or quiche pan. Heat water until boiling in saucepan or wok. Place pie plate in colander or steamer basket over water, cover and steam just until shrimp turn pink, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Remove shrimp from steamer and place basil leaf on each. Serve hot. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings.

Each serving contains about:

51 calories; 239 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.26 gram fiber.

BINH DUONG’S GRILLED LEMON GRASS SWORDFISH WITH VEGETABLES

1 1/4 teaspoons freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce (nuoc mam)

5 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh lemon grass or 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

3 shallots, minced

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 (1/2-pound) swordfish steaks, about 1 inch thick

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

10 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

1/3 cup red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar

1 sweet red pepper, cut into thick slices

2 yellow squash, ends trimmed and cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick

1 zucchini, ends trimmed and cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick

1 medium-sized red onion, cut into quarters

8 asparagus, trimmed and bases peeled

8 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed

About 2 hours before grilling swordfish, combine 1 teaspoon pepper, fish sauce, 3 cloves minced garlic, lemon grass, shallots and olive oil in bowl. Pour mixture over swordfish in shallow bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate.

About 1/2 hour before grilling, combine salt, remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper, sugar, remaining 2 cloves minced garlic, basil and vinegar in shallow bowl. Add red pepper, squash, zucchini, onion, asparagus and mushrooms. Toss to coat. Let stand 30 minutes.

Prepare hot fire for grilling or broiler. Arrange vegetables 3 inches from heat and grill on each side until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to warm plate and continue grilling vegetables. Arrange swordfish on grill and cook on each side until cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Place fish on platter and arrange vegetables around fish. Serve hot or warm. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

379 calories; 633 mg sodium; 71 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 39 grams protein; 1.71 grams fiber.

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The following two recipes are based on dishes I recently tasted in Vietnam. Both use ingredients that are available in most upscale grocery stores and Asian markets throughout Southern California.

RICE NOODLE SALAD WITH GRILLED CHICKEN

1 1/2 pounds boneless chicken breasts, skin removed

4 stalks lemon grass, ends trimmed and cut into 4-inch lengths

3 shallots, trimmed

3/4 cup fish sauce (nuoc mam)

7 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon corn or safflower oil

3/4 pound very fine rice stick noodles or vermicelli

2 cups finely shredded carrots

2 cups bean sprouts

1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

Juice 5 lemons

1 1/2 tablespoons finely minced garlic

1/2 cup chopped dry-roasted peanuts

1/4 cup minced fresh mint

1/4 cup minced fresh basil

Soak 20 (10-inch) bamboo skewers in water to cover about 1 hour.

Remove any fat or gristle from chicken. Holding cleaver at 45-degree angle, cut chicken into wide, thin slices about 1/4 inch thick. Place slices in bowl.

In food processor fitted with steel blade, while machine is running, add lemon grass, shallots, 1/4 cup fish sauce, 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, then oil. Process, turning machine on and off, until finely chopped. Add marinade to chicken pieces, toss lightly to coat, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 hours. Thread chicken slices onto soaked bamboo skewers.

Soften rice noodles in cold water to cover about 20 minutes. Heat 2 quarts water until boiling, add rice noodles and cook 2 to 3 minutes until just cooked. Drain in colander and rinse under cold, running water. Drain again. Arrange cooked noodles on platter, sprinkling carrots and bean sprouts in separate concentric circles on top. Leave space in center for chicken.

Prepare dressing by soaking crushed red pepper in lemon juice several minutes. Add garlic, remaining 5 1/2 tablespoons sugar and remaining 1/2 cup fish sauce. Stir to dissolve sugar. Transfer to serving bowl.

Arrange chicken 3 inches from source of heat and grill or broil about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from skewers and arrange over noodles. Sprinkle top with chopped peanuts, mint and basil. Serve dressing on side. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

474 calories; 417 mg sodium; 49 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 76 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 1.57 grams fiber.

SCALLION NOODLES

1/4 cup safflower or corn oil

6 green onions, ends trimmed and cut into thin shreds about 3 inches long

1 pound thin rice stick noodles

1 1/2 cups finely shredded carrots

1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger root

2 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

Pepper

1/4 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup coarsely chopped dry-roasted peanuts

Heat oil in medium-size saucepan with tight-fitting lid to about 350 degrees. Add green onions (they should sizzle vigorously), cover, and remove from heat. Let oil stand 20 minutes.

Meanwhile soften rice noodles in cold water to cover about 20 minutes. Heat 3 quarts water until boiling. Add rice noodles and cook until just done, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse in colander under cold, running water. Drain again and cut into 4-inch sections. Place noodles in large bowl.

Add green-onion oil, shredded carrots, minced ginger root, cilantro, pepper to taste, soy sauce and lemon juice. Toss lightly to coat. Sprinkle crushed peanuts on top. Serve as side dish with grilled or stir-fried seafood or meat. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

405 calories; 688 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 71 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.71 gram fiber.

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This recipe was adapted from Routhier’s “Cooking Under Wraps” (William Morrow).

ROLLED SALAD OF SMOKED TURKEY WITH BASIL DRESSING

2 2/3 cups tightly packed fresh basil leaves, shredded

2 medium eggs

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 cup rice vinegar

1 cup vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 pound angel hair pasta

1 large carrot, peeled and finely shredded

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into fine julienne strips

4 large Boston lettuce leaves, cut in thin shreds

1 large tomato, seeded and cut in thin strips

1 cup fresh bean sprouts, rinsed and drained

1 pound smoked turkey breast, cut in 32 very thin slices

16 (8-inch) round sheets Vietnamese rice paper (bah trang)

Place 2/3 cup basil, eggs, mustard, garlic, sugar and vinegar in blender or food processor fitted with steel blade. Process until basil is finely pureed. With motor running, gradually add oil and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer dressing to small bowl or jar, cover and refrigerate.

Bring 2 quarts of salted water to rolling boil. Drop in pasta and cook 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Drain in colander and set in sink. Refresh in cold, running water, then drain thoroughly. Using scissors, cut pasta into 5- to 6-inch lengths.

Place pasta in mixing bowl and add carrot, cucumber, tomato, remaining 2 cups basil, lettuce and bean sprouts.

Roll 2 slices of smoked turkey into cigar shape. Repeat with remaining slices to make 15 more rolls.

Fill large bowl with hot water. Spread clean, damp kitchen towel on work surface. Work with only 1 sheet of rice paper at time, keeping remaining sheets covered with barely damp cloth to prevent curling. Immerse sheet of rice paper in hot water 2 seconds. Remove from water and place on kitchen towel. Rice paper will become pliable within seconds.

Pack handful of mixed salad along bottom of rice sheet, about 2 inches away from edge. Top salad with turkey roll. Fold both sides of wrapper over filling. Tightly roll rice paper and filling up into neat, tight cylinder.

Place roll seam side down on tray and cover with damp towel to keep moist as you fill remaining wrappers. (Sealed in plastic food bags, rolls may be prepared up to 2 hours before serving. Do not refrigerate or rice crepes will harden and tear.)

To serve, cut rolls crosswise in half or into bite-size pieces, sushi-fashion. Ladle some dressing onto cold plates and arrange cut-up rolls over dressing. Dip rolls into dressing and eat out of hand. Makes 16 rolls, or 8 first courses or light entrees.

Note : Vietnamese rice paper (bah trang) is available at Asian markets.

Each serving contains about:

215 calories; 163 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

Note : Although many recipes call for uncooked eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has found them to be a potential carrier of food-borne illness and recommends that diners avoid eating raw eggs. Commercial egg substitutes that have been pasturized may be used in place of raw eggs in certain circumstances. Check egg substitute package for applications.

This recipe is adapted from Routhier’s “The Foods of Vietnam” (Stewart, Tabori & Chang).

COCONUT FLAN WITH CARAMEL

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup hot water

1 cup fresh or canned unsweetened coconut milk

1 cup milk

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Make caramel by cooking 1/4 cup sugar in small heavy saucepan over low heat, swirling pan constantly, until brown. Stir hot water into caramel, being careful to guard against splattering (mixture will bubble vigorously). Boil mixture, swirling pan occasionally, until sugar is thoroughly dissolved, about 2 minutes.

Pour caramel syrup into 1-quart souffle dish. Tilt molds to coat all surfaces with caramel.

Make custard by combining coconut milk, milk and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in medium saucepan over low heat. Scald until sugar dissolves completely. Remove from heat.

Whisk eggs and vanilla in large bowl. Gradually whisk hot coconut milk mixture into eggs, blending thoroughly. Strain custard through fine sieve into bowl. Carefully pour into caramel-lined souffle dish.

Line large roasting pan with 2 layers of paper towels. Put souffle dish or ramekins in roasting pan and add hot water to reach halfway up side of dish. Bake in center of oven a 325 degrees until knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Be careful not to let water boil. Do not disturb custard while baking.

Remove souffle dish immediately from hot water. Allow to cool in cold-water bath. Chill thoroughly.

To serve, run knife around edge of custard and turn out onto dessert plates. Serve with shaved ice or whipped cream, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

208 calories; 67 mg sodium; 145 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.82 gram fiber.

* VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD: Eating during the transition years. H23

* MARKETS: Down the aisles at Little Saigon Supermarket. H24

Food styling by Donna Deane and Mayi Brady.