Gimme Sugar

In the last couple of weeks, I’ve had strawberry desserts in four restaurants. But while they all looked enticing, they were almost devoid of sugar.

Since most strawberries are not very sweet--in fact, they are often slightly sour--I even wondered whether these dishes should have been offered as savories rather than desserts.

I know that excessive amounts of sugar and salt can be a problem and that I should probably be glad that pastry chefs are concerned about the state of my health, but what about the other chefs in the kitchen who served me all of that butter, olive oil and cream? It’s difficult to know whom to thank these days and whom to criticize.

Since my doctor hasn’t requested that I limit my use of sugar and salt, I continue to enjoy strawberries and lemon custard in meringue and strawberry-whipped cream waffles. Strawberries and lemon custard in meringue dates back at least 30 years and was known as heavenly strawberry pie.

Strawberry whipped cream waffles should be remembered but seem to be sadly forgotten. I can’t remember the last time I was served waffles in a private home, with or without strawberries. Waffles are not only splendid at breakfast; they are very pleasing as a savory dish served with creamed mushrooms, or creamed crab spooned on top. Good earthy buckwheat waffles, spread lightly with sour cream, smoked salmon and a sprinkle of salmon roe, can brighten the spirit.

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If you are looking for something that’s easy to prepare, waffles are it. Waffle batter can be made a day in advance and refrigerated until needed. Baking the waffle needn’t be a lonely job; there is charm in having a waffle iron on the table with a large pitcher of batter and bowls of toppings. It only increases the anticipation of having hot, golden waffles on your plate.

STRAWBERRIES AND LEMON CUSTARD IN MERINGUE

4 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups whipping cream, whipped

Meringue Crust

2 cups strawberries, rinsed, sliced in half and sweetened to taste

In medium heavy-bottomed pan, combine egg yolks, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until mixture is thick, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and cool, stirring occasionally. Gently stir in half of whipped cream. Fill meringue crust. Refrigerate at least 6 hours. (May be prepared 1 day in advance to this point.)

Before serving, spread half of strawberries over lemon custard, spread remaining whipped cream on top (if cream has separated, whip briefly) and top whipped cream with remaining berries. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie, or 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

538 calories; 185 mg sodium; 291 mg cholesterol; 34 grams fat; 57 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.26 gram fiber.

Meringue Crust

1/2 cup egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 cup sugar

In large mixing bowl beat egg whites and cream of tartar until frothy. Slowly add sugar in thin stream, beating constantly, until whites are stiff but moist.

Spread meringue about 1/4-inch thick over bottom and about 1-inch thick up sides of greased 9-inch pie pan. Bake at 275 degrees 1 hour or until lightly browned and firm to touch. Remove from oven. Cool.

STRAWBERRY- WHIPPED CREAM WAFFLES

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons baking powder

2 tablespoons sugar

2 eggs, room temperature

1 1/2 cups milk, slightly warmed

1/3 cup shortening, melted

1/3 cup butter, melted

1 1/2 cups whipping cream whipped and sweetened to taste

About 6 cups of strawberries, rinsed, sliced in half and sweetened to taste

In mixing bowl combine flour, salt, baking powder and sugar. Stir with fork until blended.

In another bowl beat eggs well and stir in milk. Combine with flour mixture until well mixed. Add melted shortening and butter. Beat until blended.

Pour about 1/2-cup batter into very hot waffle iron. (It takes from 1/2 to 3/4 cup batter to make 1 waffle, depending on size of waffle iron.) Bake waffles until golden and crispy.

Spoon whipped cream on top of hot, cooked waffles and mound strawberries on top. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

490 calories; 640 mg sodium; 139 mg cholesterol; 36 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.68 gram fiber.