Let’s Play Ball : Glamorous Gowns Are Going to Dramatic Lengths to Revive Romance

With their bejeweled bodices and voluminous taffeta skirts that make a pleasing rustling sound when women walk, ball gowns recall an era of Old World elegance.

For the past few years, it seemed that world had been lost. Traditional ball gowns were seldom seen at even the fanciest galas. Instead women wore pared-down, understated column dresses that seemed more appropriate for recessionary times.

Now there are signs that ball gowns--and glamour--are making a comeback.

At formal affairs from Orange County to New York, women are once again dressing up like Cinderella in yards of taffeta and silk.

“Glamour is back. It’s demonstrated in red lips, red nail polish and soft hair,” says Sandra Graham, spokeswoman for Escada USA in New York City. “That’s where the return of the ball gown comes in. Women want to feel glamorous, romantic and elegant.”

This is the first year in many seasons that Graham says she doesn’t feel self-conscious wearing a ball gown to a formal affair.

“I’m seeing a lot more of them in the past six months,” she says.

With the economic landscape improving, there are more opulent ball gowns on the racks--and more people buying them--than in several years past, says Dorothy Maas, corporate couture director for Nordstrom, which has stores in the Brea Mall, MainPlace/Santa Ana and South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa.

“Ball gowns lend a certain elegance. We’re getting away from last fall’s drab looks,” Maas says. “At one point everyone wanted slinky, understated looks. It had to do with the economy.”

The gowns come in the deep jewel tones that have been missing recently from fashion. There are rich hues of ruby and purple that lend themselves to wearing fabulous jewelry--also primed for a comeback.

Designer Joanna Mastroianni chose deep purple for a ball gown with a satin over-skirt and beaded lace long-sleeved top ($4,700 at Nordstrom). For high glamour, Michael Casey designed a strapless ball gown that sculpts the body in tightly gathered iridescent turquoise taffeta; the skirt flares out dramatically below the hips, and the gown comes with a flowing sash ($4,700 at Nordstrom).

Some gowns have just a touch of drama: Donald Deal’s simple strapless gown of navy satin has a touch of black lace trim on the accompanying wrap ($1,870 at Nordstrom). Carolina Herrera, meanwhile, made sure the wearer of her black velvet gown would turn heads. It has a bright red silk petal skirt attached to the back ($3,400 at Nordstrom).

Some designers have taken liberties with the basic ball gown silhouette--traditionally a full skirt that poufs out with the help of petticoats and a fitted bodice to show off the waist. Scaasi, for instance, created an empire waist ball gown with a full skirt of red rose damask and a red lace long-sleeved top ($3,390 at Nordstrom).

Escada, too, has updated the classic ball gown. Some of its gowns feature innovations like turning the top and skirt into separates, so one can wear a big ball skirt with the velvet top it comes with or something different, such as an organza blouse.

“It’s new to ball gowns. It modernizes them,” Graham says.

Fresh prints, including plaids and stripes in silk and taffeta, also freshen up the ball gown for the ‘90s.

One Escada gown has a brown and gold striped taffeta skirt with a brown velvet jacket-style bodice ($3,000), while another has a skirt of crimson plaid taffeta and a black velvet attached jacket with red bow trim ($2,000). Both gowns are available at the Escada boutique in South Coast Plaza.

“Ball gowns take you back in time,” Graham says. “There’s a feminine influence in the market now. Things are flowing and soft, and ball gowns fall into that category.”

Where to wear these romantic creations? In Orange County, ball gowns are not worn to just any old black-tie gala.

There’s a difference between your ordinary black-tie event and one that requires a huge ball gown, says Gael Lauritzen, owner of 341 Bayside in Newport Beach. For most formal functions women prefer to wear short cocktail dresses or long slip gowns, she says.

“For women today, ball gowns are for something beyond a black-tie event,” Lauritzen says. “It takes your most dressy occasion.”

Opera and debutante balls are among the spectacular events where ball gowns are the rule more than the exception. Such extra-special galas call for a fantasy creation such as Vera Wang’s ball gown of hunter green taffeta with its striking portrait collar (about $3,000 at 341 Bayside).

“Ball gowns will always be a necessity for that most elegant of evening affairs,” Lauritzen says.