Dawn Breaks Over Vista; the Bread Also Rises

Bread and water can be a meager meal. But when the bread is from Pain du Monde in Corona del Mar, and the water is that of endless Pacific Ocean views at nearby Emerald Vista--possibly the best view hike in Orange County--it’s a great way to start your day. (You might even be able to get this tour in before work.)

6 to 6:40 a.m.: The coastal hills are backlit by a sun not yet risen. Street sweepers ensure that Corona del Mar will still charm at dawn’s first light. Customers are already waiting when Pain du Monde opens its doors.

Inside, you can buy whole-wheat bagels with raisins (80 cents), blueberry banana oat bran muffins ($1.45) and scones like cumulus clouds in Scottish (plain), orange and cranberry flavors ($1.45). Think of the breakfast bagel as McMonde: It has egg and ham inside and melted cheese and tomato on top ($1.75). A bowl of crunchy granola with bananas ($2.65) is an ideal pre-hike breakfast, and the cappuccino ($2) can’t be beat.

6:40 to 9: Early mornings this time of the year are the very best for panoramic viewing.

Coast Highway south of Corona del Mar is under lots of construction these days. I like those signs that show a man with a sign, and sure enough, ahead there’s a man with a sign. Pass the Newport Coast gateways--triumphal arches for local developers--and turn into Crystal Cove State Park at El Moro Canyon.

The coastal fathers obviously mean business when it comes to development, so a sign in the parking lot seemed particularly distressing: “No person shall climb, scale, mount, ascend or descend any bluff or rock face not identified, developed or otherwise indicated permitting such activity.” I didn’t see any bluffs or rock faces so identified or developed.

Follow a path along the backside of El Moro Beach Mobile Home Park. At the canyon bottom I found cactus patches live and charred, phone lines, towering stands of plants, a creek, “lost white cat” signs--you’re in coyote country; this is no place for house cats on the loose--an orange highway cone, a stink bug waving its rear end menacingly and a metal pole with barricade tape loosely hanging down for no apparent reason that says: “Police line, do not cross.”

The path joins the maintained El Moro Ridge trail near the almost imposing manses of Irvine Cove; other trails appeared to have been mowed.

The moon was high in the sky, the still-low sun reflected off the bellies of airplanes.

Emerging from the canyon, the sun hit me blazing. Turning away, I saw that my shadow reached clear across the canyon to the ridge opposite; the ridge shadow crept perceptibly toward me.

You could see clearly from a number of vistas along the trail. I saw clearly, for instance, that smog had blown 26 miles across the sea and, though the cliffs rose above it magnificently unperturbed, choked Catalina Island at sea level.

Higher up, a signpost indicates that it is 7/10ths of a mile to the East Cut-Across and 2.8 miles to the park boundary. Turn right, and the other side of the post says that Emerald Vista is 2/10ths of a mile.

No sign identifies Emerald Vista. But there’s a sign that forbids loitering “by law,” an antenna and a marker for the Joseph R. Sweany Reservoir that describes its capacity as 100,000 gallons, its elevation as 594.50 feet and maximum water depth as 15.50 feet (exactly where they’re hiding the reservoir is anybody’s guess).

A high-voltage box is labeled “consumer commodity . . . contains a one-pound box of aerosol spray paint.”

From here you have a 180-degree panorama taking in Newport Harbor, Palos Verdes Peninsula, Santa Monica Mountains and possibly the Santa Barbara coastline to the north, Catalina looming large and another land mass--either San Clemente Island or Japan--to the west, successive points jutting into the sea like five fingers and San Diego’s Point Loma to the south.

Slightly higher on the trail, you can have Catalina, Santiago Peak--you could see the antennae atop Saddleback with the unaided eye--and Mt. Baldy in your sights simultaneously.

On a hilltop farther still, you can have it all, a 360-degree view including the islands, the peaks, the points, the sun and the moon, and nice homes in two directions to boot.

Few views in Orange County can compete; none can be reached so easily.

To return, simply retrace your steps. The hike’s about five miles. To complete a slightly longer loop, continue on El Moro Ridge to the East Cut-Across, turn left to El Moro Canyon, and left again back to the visitors center.

3-HOUR TOUR

1. Pain Du Monde

3636 E. Coast Highway

Corona del Mar

(714) 723-1131

Open daily, 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.

2. Crystal Cove State Park

8471 Pacific Coast Highway

Laguna Beach

(714) 494-3539

Open daily 6 a.m. to sunset.

PARKING / BUSES

Parking: There is ample parking in lots at both locations. Parking at the state park is $5 (bring a $5 bill or five $1 bills) or $6 when attendant is on duty.

Buses: OCTA bus 1 runs north and south along Coast Highway with stops at Poppy Avenue and El Moro Beach Mobile Home Park.