Rare Gems From a Shy ‘Master of Precious Metals’ : Art: Gianmaria Buccellati shows works that have been locked away for years. Large gemstone and jewelry pieces can be seen at the Natural History Museum.

What are arguably the finest contemporary goldsmith and lapidary works in the world have for years been locked in the private vaults of the House of Buccellati in Milan. But now Gianmaria Buccellati, heir to the family tradition of jewelry making, has brought his private collection to the United States.

Its first stop is the Los Angeles Natural History Museum. The exhibition, which runs through Jan. 8, captures the essence of the Italian Renaissance and French Rococo styles.

Until now all that could be seen of the Buccellati works was his jewelry, which is sold at a handful of shops all over the world. But Buccellati never thought there would be any interest in his private collection, which consists of much bigger and more valuable pieces, until the idea was suggested by Larry French, who runs the Buccellati Beverly Hills store.

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Anthony R. Kampf, curator of gems and minerals at the museum and of this exhibition, said that it was a shame to let the collection remain hidden from the public in a vault, so the decision was made to bring it to the United States.

“Most impressive to me is the craftsmanship,” Kampf said. “Every piece has been made by hand using techniques employed for hundreds of years. There are no shortcuts; it’s painstaking work.”

The heart of the exhibit is new works by Buccellati, 14 large gemstone and jewelry masterworks that he designed for himself during the past 25 years. But the exhibit also contains items made by the family as long as 75 years ago.

Most of the older pieces have been sold to private parties over the years. So Gianmaria Buccellati created the new pieces to preserve his ancestors’ legacy. He began his own goldsmith career when he was a 14-year-old apprentice in his family’s shop and laboratories. When his father, Mario, died in 1965, Gianmaria continued the heritage.

Some of the pieces created by the House of Buccellati were made for famous international clients. One, the late poet, dramatist and novelist Gabriele D’Annunzio, referred to Mario as the “maestro paragon coppella” (master of precious metals).

Today more than 200 craftsmen help Buccellati make the distinctive pieces of jewelry. His sons Gino and Andrea, wife Rosa Maria and nephew Mario work with him.

Buccellati describes himself as a perfectionist. It is not uncommon for a work of his to remain unfinished for years until he feels inspired to complete it just the right way.

Among the highlights of this exhibition is a stunning brooch known as the “Phoenix.” The centerpiece of the mythological bird is a baroque pearl of more than 135 carats. The pearl, a mauvescent color, is from the Red Sea. Buccellati said someone brought the pearl to him because they knew that he collects strange and unusual things. He was inspired to build around the pearl, combining it with hundreds of white and canary diamonds, a white baroque South Sea pearl and three colors of gold using the classic engraving style that is the hallmark of Buccellati.

“Cratere Delle Muse” (the Trophy of the Muses) takes its inspiration and name from Greco-Roman traditions--”I found this beautiful piece of jade, carved it and combined it with gold, silver and blue sapphires.” That’s 2,027 Cabochon sapphires. Buccellati engraved the names of the nine muses along the inside of the gold border.

A triumph of goldsmithing and lapidary work is the “Cup of Pleasure,” a chalice created from three pieces of carved rock crystal (quartz) joined by yellow-, white- and rose-colored gold. It is embellished with 55 emeralds and 31 rubies. The design borrows elements from the Italian Renaissance and Louis XV period.

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“Coppa Dell Oblio” (the Cup of Euphoric Bliss) embodies complete romanticism, which is typically characteristic of the swan. The swan, an antique piece of carved moss jasper, was found by Buccellati, who then built around the beautiful stone: “The swan is happy and always dreaming.” The chest and wings of the swan are gold, and it gazes upon itself through its diamond eyes.

The beauty and elegance of feminine forms have always inspired the highest image of the spirit of love. “Coppa Dell’Amore” (the Cup of the Spirit of Love) is made out of an antique piece of red jasper. The borders and decorations are in yellow gold. Set on a Rococo motif, the gold “Venus and the Three Cupids” represents the idealized theme of water, air and wind.

“Coppa Medicean” (the Medicean Cup) is inspired by the Renaissance. The cup is made of sodalite, and gold borders of 15th-Century style leaves alternated with silver engravings add contrast. A faceted ruby is set in the center of each yellow gold rosette, which is chased in a “modellato” pattern. Special tools must be used to create this particularly exquisite pattern.

* The Museum of Natural History, 900 Exposition Blvd., L.A., is open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-4:45 p.m. Admission, which includes entrance to the Buccellati exhibition, is $6 for adults, $4 for seniors and students and $2 for children. (213) 744-3466.