Getting New Sink in Lime Green May Be Tough Match
Q. We have a home built in the ‘50s that has a lime-green toilet and sink in one of the bathrooms. The toilet works fine, but the sink has become chipped over time and is in need of replacement. I’d like to find a sink of the same color, because our paint and wallpaper in the room coordinate with lime green. Is that possible?
B.F. Anaheim *
A. You may not be able to get an exact match, says Rich Haagsma of Faucets N’ Fixtures in Orange. Most of the major manufacturers of fixtures change their colors every seven years, so finding an older color, other than white, is nearly impossible. You could try a manufacturer of decorative sinks, which are generally made to match the colors of many manufacturers; they might have one that’s close. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a sink in a coordinating color or replace both the sink and toilet.
That may not be such a bad idea. A 40-year-old toilet uses 7 1/2 gallons per flush, which is very inefficient, and there have to be water deposits in there that keep it from working right. It may be a good time to replace both.
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Q. The vent pipe on my water heater always seemed to topple over. Recently I replaced it with some extra flexible aluminum tubing that had been used to vent a clothes dryer. It connected easily to the water heater. Is it OK to use for a vent?
G.T. Westminster *
A. No. You need to use a vent pipe that’s designed for venting water heaters, says Ron Albright of Albright Plumbing & Heating Supply in Los Alamitos. It’s technically called double-wall code B vent pipe. It’s made from two layers of sheet metal with an air gap in between. This keeps the pipe from being too hot to handle when it’s in use.
The problem with using a dryer pipe is it’s not designed to handle the amount of heat that comes from a water heater.
If you’re having a problem with your pipe not staying in place, screw it into place so that it’s stable at all times.
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Q. We bought a house three years ago that had a newly painted exterior.
Now we’re noticing that in spots on the trim, the paint is developing an “alligator” finish.
What causes this, and what can be done to prevent it?
H.N. Orange *
A. Assuming that a latex paint was used, because that’s pretty common, it was probably a latex low in vinyl acrylic, says Ken Kaczorowski of Tustin Paint Mart. Generally, with heavier, clay-based paints, the paint dries out more easily than do those that have more of an acrylic base. You’re more likely to find this problem on your wood trim, because the sun is pulling out moisture on the exterior side of the surface, while the wood is drawing it in on the other side. Look for a paint that has a high acrylic content, or go with an alkyd-modified enamel.
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Q. Is it best to apply a stain with a rag? I’ve always thought that with intricate work, a brush is better to really get at hard to reach surfaces. Also, how soon does the stain need to be wiped away after it’s applied?
D.D. Brea *
A. It’s fine to use a brush, preferably a good, natural-bristled one, says woodworker Steve Mitchell of Laguna Niguel. Using a rag can make a job go faster, though, because a rag tends to hold more stain, and you’re not having to constantly dip it. As for wiping, make sure you follow the directions on the can. Usually, the sooner you wipe, the lighter the stain will be, but that depends on the stain and the type of wood you’re applying it to.
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Q. I have recessed lighting throughout my condo, and all the lights have 75-watt bulbs. I want to get some 100-watt bulbs, but how can I tell whether the fixture is rated to take 100-watt bulbs?
E.Y. Costa Mesa *
A. Pull off the black or white (fixture cover) and look inside, says electrician Andy Maher of Huntington Beach. It may say what you can use on the inside. If not, check with other owners or the homeowners association to find out what everyone else uses before calling out an electrician to get a definitive answer.
