Festive Holiday Spirit Returns to Bethlehem

Thousands of pilgrims converged here Saturday to celebrate Christmas at the birthplace of Jesus.

The mood reflected changes brought about by Middle East peace talks as tourists from Jordan, which ended a 46-year formal state of war with Israel with an October peace treaty, arrived under once-outlawed Palestinian flags and pictures of Palestine Liberation Organization leader Yasser Arafat.

Residents said the atmosphere in Bethlehem’s Manger Square was the most festive since the Palestinian uprising launched in 1987 cast gloom over the town’s Christmas celebrations.

Thronging the town was a crowd estimated at more than 10,000, a sharp increase from past years. Marching bands played Christmas carols, and fireworks lit the cold, clear night sky, illuminating a skyline of church spires and festive decorations.

Vendors grilled meat over open coals and sold hot pudding from brass containers.

“It’s more beautiful than last year. It’s more beautiful every year and, God willing, it will be even more beautiful next year,” a 30-year-old Palestinian said.

But a sobering note was cast by the hundreds of Israeli soldiers armed with assault rifles watching from rooftops and street corners.