CULTURE WATCH : Mission Possible

The San Gabriel Mission is older than the American Republic. In 1776, while the English colonies that would become the United States were fighting for their independence, the mission hosted Col. Juan Bautista de Anza and a Mexican delegation traveling from Sonora en route to establish San Francisco.

This is one of the richest and most atmospheric of all the California missions. Highlights include a polychrome altar, a domed baptistery (the baptismal font, of hammered Spanish copper, is older than the mission) and an adjacent winery, tannery, cemetery and cloister garden.

Sadly, the four-foot-thick walls of the church are no defense against earthquake. The church was closed for five years after the 1987 Whittier earthquake. The mission museum, in an ancient structure on the grounds, has been closed since last year’s Northridge quake.

San Gabriel’s mission district, including the mission-style San Gabriel Civic Auditorium, has suffered from the resulting loss of tourism. But that seems about to change. The city has just won the James C. Howland “urban enrichment” Award of the National League of Cities for a $1.8-million face lift of the mission district. New restaurants are opening. New theatrical companies are booking the auditorium. The district has come back to life.

San Gabriel is the cradle of Greater Los Angeles. The mission church is the oldest building in Southern California. The mayor and citizens of this little (37,120) town deserve credit for rescuing a heritage that matters to us all.