Destination: Switzerland : Wild Things : Like clockwork, Lucerne’s carnival gives the usually prim Swiss a chance to be outrageous

Startling red wigs towered over grimacing faces. A 10-foot-tall harlequin led a group of women in purple-fringed robes. Giant dinosaurs with flashing red eyes erupted black smoke. A tri-headed creature sporting three blue-sequined hats watched as gold dragons in brown and green robes marched by.

It was not a Paul Klee painting, though the Swiss master would probably have appreciated the kaleidoscopic exuberance of the scene. It was, rather, Lucerne’s annual Fasnacht, or carnival, and I was not at all overdressed in blue wig, gold mask, purple boa and tasseled jacket on this cold and misty February afternoon.

Though not as well-known as similar pre-Lenten festivities in Venice, Rio, New Orleans or even Basel, Switzerland, Lucerne’s three-day carnival is an unforgettable affair--a chance to see the residents of this normally staid, picture-postcard town let loose in once-a-year outrageousness.

Unlike the more restrictive affair in Basel--with its rigid adherence to Fasnacht traditions and its formal, structured hierarchy that reserves costumes and parade participation for members of carnival cliques or guilds--the Lucerne celebration invites visitors to contribute. Where the Basel carnival is a spectacle to see, Lucerne is a spectacle to be part of, and visitors are encouraged to dress in costume and celebrate along with officialcarnival guilds.

Like similar events throughout the world, the Swiss carnivals in towns and villages all over the country have their roots in pagan mid-winter rituals whose earliest precursors are ancient Roman and Egyptian observances to chase winter away and welcome spring. With the onset of Christianity, these celebrations became a final gala before the rigors of Lent, usually culminating on Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras), the day before Lent begins.

Where other carnivals can be rather risque, even a bit tawdry, Switzerland’s carnival is a family affair, and the impeccably wrought splendor of the elaborate costumes is a tribute to Swiss craftsmanship.

Lucerne’s Fasnacht, whose first recorded appearance was in 1374, is organized by a committee with the sole purpose of planning the festivities--parades, balls and concerts--in which more than 100 individual carnival guilds participate, along with hotels and restaurants and perhaps 100,000 visitors from all over the world. There is great pride among the individual guilds who create elaborate costumes and frenetic tunes that are part of the parades.

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My Fasnacht sojourn began last year in the pre-dawn Kapellplatz square, where the opening ceremonies take place on Schmutziger Donnerstag, or Dirty Thursday, the Thursday before Ash Wednesday (this year, Feb. 23). Waiting next to a group draped in pink and black striped gowns, I saw one man wearing green and purple horns of satin; another was swathed in yellow and red flames climbing the hem of his black robe; shimmering parti-colored eggs tumbled over a woman’s emerald green tights. It was a visual explosion, almost too rich for morning-bleary eyes.

Promptly at 5 a.m. the street lights were extinguished and the crowd of thousands fell quiet. A distant explosion of fireworks, a tumultuous cheer, a deafening blast of music from the band marching in, and it was time for the event known as Tagwache , or start of the day, which was marked, as always, by the entrance of the Fritschi -- the traditional costumed characters who open the festivities. The costumed Fritschivater (an elderly man), the Fritschene (his wife) and their cortege made their way through the crowd.

After saluting us, the masked Fritschi figures mounted a platform in the center of the square along with members of the guild and began the Orangenauswerfen (orange battle), flinging fruit into the crowd. A collective second childhood seemed to overtake the assembled, who clamored for position, dove and jumped as oranges flew and then clutched their juicy prizes to their breasts. If you’ve spent any time in the refined tearooms, glitzy dining halls or elegant lace shops of Lucerne, this mass hysteria is an oddly inspiring, not to mention comical, sight.

Then began a procession of Guggenmusig bands: outrageously costumed groups that marched through the streets playing dented, out-of-tune horns, creating atonal music that is traditional and quite distinct.

The deafening noise of Guggenmusig filled the air and couples danced through the streets, sipping the traditional Gluhwein (red spiced wine), munching on bratwurst and, perhaps, pausing for a brief smooch under the eye of a wandering snaggle-toothed monster or a six-foot mouse.

The procession lasted a few hours but the musicians continued performing all morning. I found the best vantage points for watching the performers and audience--it’s sometimes hard to tell which is which--along the Reuss River or on one of the city’s many bridges.

The Thursday afternoon Umzug, or parade, was spectacular. One group after another marched by for more than two hours in costumes representing each of their guilds.

After that cavalcade there were no more formal activities until Monday. Yet Lucerne’s tiny streets remained crowded and lively, with visitors from all over Switzerland gathering with locals for one last party before the city--which is predominantly Catholic--buttoned down for Lent.

At 5 a.m. Monday, the Tagwache began again and after the relative quiet of the weekend, the craziness seemed strangely welcome. More early morning orange-hurling, more Guggenmusig, more good spirits. There was another parade at 2 p.m., and like Thursday, the day was awash with celebration. Groups wandered through town playing bizarre instruments, and the restaurants and bars were packed well into the night.

Tuesday brought a children’s parade in the afternoon, and the grand Monsterkorso in the evening, a final parade and concert by the fantastic costumed bands. Participants wended their way through the old town packed with a crowd of almost 100,000 onlookers, and the gaiety continued until dawn broke bringing with it the solemnity of Lent on Ash Wednesday.

If the events have something of a sameness to them--the Tagwache, the parade--the diversity of performers and spectators is so extensive, you could wander for days and still come across some you haven’t seen.

Ultimately, it’s individuals who stand out: a boy with pink, blue and brown velvet horns kissing a girl in orange, purple and gold; three witches with teddy bears on their shoulders; a family of lampposts; a tiny child shyly offering a bouquet to a mysterious caped figure.

Then on Ash Wednesday morning, the streets were immaculately clean, with not a speck of confetti or a glittery remnant to be found. The town was deathly quiet, the Guggenmusig perhaps still ringing in the mind but absent from the deserted alleyways of the old town, which the previous night had exploded with sound and color. Fasnacht, so gloriously alive just hours ago, was firmly and absolutely over, turned off like a switch . . . with impeccable timing, the Swiss way.

GUIDEBOOK

Carnival Show

Getting there: From LAX fly nonstop to Zurich on Swissair; or fly direct (one stop but no change of planes) on American, or connecting service on Delta, Lufthansa, KLM, Northwest, United, British Air and Air Canada. Round-trip fares start at about $800.

Swiss Federal Railways links Zurich International Airport with Lucerne, with trains running every 30 minutes for the one-hour trip. No reservations are necessary. Round-trip fares start at about $35 per person.

Where to stay: Hotel Krone, 12 Weinmarkt, 6004 Lucerne, Switzerland; double room per night, about $135, including breakfast; from the U.S. call 011-41-41-51-6251 or (800) 448-8355..

Hotel Des Balances, Weinmarkt, 6000 Lucerne 5, Switzerland; double room about $230, including breakfast; tel. 011-41-41-51-1851., fax 011-41-41-51-6451.

Palace Hotel, Haldenstrasse 10, CH-6006 Lucerne, Switzerland; double room about $240; tel. 011-41-41-50-2222 or (800) 223-6800.

For more information: Swiss National Tourist Office, 222 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Suite 1570, El Segundo 90245; (310) 335-5980.