Cheese in Your Soup

The two cheese staples in my mother’s pantry were provolone and Romano. I am not talking about the prepackaged sliced provolone or the ground Romano now sold in supermarkets everywhere. As far back as I can remember, our cheese came from whole provolone, waxed on the outside and hung from a web of string, or a hefty wedge of milky white Romano covered in a distinctive black coating. Mom and Dad, both first-generation Italian Americans, considered imported Italian cheese a necessity, not an extravagance. I wasn’t convinced.

Being a picky eater (and a little rebellious as well) I decided at an early age that provolone cheese had an aroma I didn’t like (food negatives, like smelly or horrible, were not tolerated), and Romano cheese was too strong for my delicate palate.

Fortunately, I grew up, left home and saw the culinary light in my future. Now I can proudly say that I am a true cheese lover and that aged Italian cheeses are a staple in my kitchen as well. The one exception is that I wrap my cheese in plastic wrap and foil, while Mom always wrapped hers in wax paper and a brown paper bag.

Pecorino Romano, a wonderful sheep’s milk cheese from the area around Rome and the island of Sardinia, has a rich, complex, slightly nutty flavor with herbaceous overtones reminiscent of thyme, rosemary and sage. Because the flavor is so robust, a little goes a long way. I like it best cut into tiny cubes and added to a hot soup, or shaved into thin curls onto plates of risotto or green salad, or simply shredded over a platter of pasta lightly sauced with a silken tomato and meat gravy--just like my mom’s.

*

The following recipe is a main-course soup made with spring vegetables and chicken or shrimp. Traditionally, cheese isn’t served with seafood, but when used sparingly in certain fish dishes it helps to bring out flavors. Serve with potato tortilla.

SPRING SOUP WITH CUBES OF PECORINO ROMANO CHEESE

To cut basil leaves into thin strips, stack leaves, roll tightly and cut into thin crosswise slices. This is sometimes called a chiffonade. Slivers of boneless and skinless chicken breast can be used instead of shrimp.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 strip bacon or 1 slice prosciutto, chopped into small pieces

1 garlic clove, chopped

6 cups chicken broth, preferably reduced-sodium

1 cup cooked rice

1 cup diagonally sliced trimmed and peeled asparagus

1 cup diced plum tomato

1/4 cup finely chopped or coarsely shredded carrot

1/2 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/2 cup 1/4-inch-cubes Pecorino Romano cheese

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons julienne-cut fresh basil

Cook olive oil, bacon and garlic in large wide saucepan until lightly browned, not crisp. Add chicken broth and rice. Bring to boil. Add asparagus, tomato and carrot. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are tender, about 8 minutes.

Stir in shrimp and cheese. Cook until shrimp turn from translucent to opaque, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh basil.

Makes 4 servings.

POTATO TORTILLA

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled, wiped clean with damp kitchen towel (do not rinse) and thinly sliced

1/4 cup minced onion

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 large eggs, beaten

Heat 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot enough to evaporate 1 drop of water upon contact. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and tilt pan to coat evenly. Spread about 1/3 of potato slices on bottom of pan. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons onions and salt and pepper to taste over potatoes. Repeat layers. Finish with remaining potato slices. Dribble with remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Press down firmly on potatoes with back of large spatula.

Cover and cook over medium-low heat until potatoes are tender when pierced with knife tip, 20 to 25 minutes. As potatoes cook, uncover pan and press down firmly on potato slices every 5 minutes.

In bowl whisk eggs until blended. Drizzle over potatoes, avoiding outside edges as much as possible. Cover and cook until eggs set, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Let tortilla stand, covered, 5 minutes.

Loosen edges of tortilla from skillet with rubber spatula. Place round platter on top of skillet and carefully invert. Bottom should be crisp and browned. Cool at least 10 minutes. Cut tortilla into wedges and serve warm, cold or at room temperature.

Makes 4 servings, with leftovers.