Hawaii’s Best Beaches : Longtime Island Residents Reveal Their Sentimental Favorites

For some Hawaii residents, the question is a personal one. A little too personal.

“Why would I want to tell the rest of the world the answer to that?” responded one Honolulu woman when asked to name her favorite beach in Hawaii. “One of the things that’s special about the places we most like to go is their privacy and quiet.”

Her reluctance highlights the love-hate relationship Hawaii’s 1 million residents have with the 6.5 million tourists who flock here each year--particularly when it comes to sharing the inside scoop on the state’s most famous natural resource. Fortunately, many locals show a lot of Hawaiian aloha and are willing to let you in on their secrets.

Here, then, is a tour of Hawaii’s favorite beaches, as seen through the sentimental eyes of a dozen prominent Hawaii residents. With the exception of champion surfer Clyde Aikau, none is an expert, per se, on surf and sand. But life in Hawaii is synonymous with beaches; none had trouble conjuring up his or her favorite.

Clyde Aikau--Waimea Bay Beach Park, Oahu

In the winter, the world’s largest ridable waves pound Waimea, on Oahu’s North Shore. When a swell hits, crowds and photographers gather to watch surfers such as Clyde Aikau tackle the seemingly impossible.

But while Waimea is best known for its occasional 30-foot breaks, Aikau also enjoys the summer months when the waters of the picturesque bay resemble glass.

“Waimea is a beautiful beach all year round,” Aikau says. “It has thick sand that your feet sink into, and the beach is really wide. It’s unlike Waikiki, where you are toe-to-toe with everybody. You kind of have your own private sand.

“In the summer, it’s so calm, like a pool. I like to swim laps in the bay,” he adds. “You can see the bottom of the ocean and the reefs, crystal clear.”

Keiko Bonk-Abramson--Green Sand Beach, Big Island

Near what Hawaii residents like to note is the southernmost point of the United States, a volcanic cinder cone known as Puu o Mahana rises steeply from the ocean. At its base--a hot, three-mile hike from the nearest paved road--is green-tinged Mahana, better known as Green Sand Beach.

For Hawaii County Councilwoman Keiko Bonk-Abramson, the state’s only elected member of the Green Party, Green Sand Beach is, aptly enough, the best. She says she was conceived in the neighborhood (her father was doing archeological work near South Point), so it was a natural choice. The beach offers no fresh drinking water or shade, and swimming can be treacherous because of a severe undertow. But dolphins and whales frequent the waters near shore.

“There’s an indescribable inspiration you get there that I’ve never felt in even the most abandoned beaches around the world,” Bonk-Abramson says. “I like it because I can be alone. If you come from an urban, crowded area, it’s the other extreme.”

Mike Carr--Lumahai Beach, Kauai

Mike Carr, president of Honolulu-based Polynesian Adventure Tours, devotes his days to making sure tourists have a good time in Hawaii. Occasionally, he gets to be a tourist himself.

He and his wife, Connie, treasure a beach on Kauai’s North Shore that over the years has enticed countless movie buffs: Lumahai, where Mitzi Gaynor tried to “wash that man right out of my hair” in “South Pacific.”

Lumahai is not for the faint of heart. With no protective reef, waves constantly lash the beach, shifting its sand up and down the coast. A steep drop-off close to shore creates dramatic but dangerous surf, particularly during the winter and spring, that has claimed several lives.

But that doesn’t stop Carr. “It’s the end of the world right there,” he says. “We spent a lot of time there on our honeymoon. We think it’s the most romantic place on Earth.”

Richard Chamberlain--Ke Iki, Oahu

He helped make Kauai’s Kee Beach famous as the setting for a torrid reunion in the television miniseries “The Thorn Birds.” But when actor and Honolulu resident Richard Chamberlain wants to escape, he heads to little-known Ke Iki beach.

A seductive belt of soft, deep sand dunes, Ke Iki beach lies largely hidden from public view, just a mile from world-famous Waimea on Oahu’s North Shore. Chamberlain recommends staying at Ke Iki Hale, whose beachfront bungalows catch one-of-a-kind sunsets.

“The beach is long and broad and extremely substantial,” Chamberlain says. “It still has a kind of wild feeling to it. It is great fun to sit and watch these huge waves. . . . There are very few people there. You feel you have this marvelous place all to yourself.”

Frank De Lima--Sans Souci Beach, Oahu

Frank De Lima, a comedian at Honolulu’s Outrigger Reef Towers hotel, chose a section of Waikiki--arguably the world’s most famous beach--as his favorite. And he wasn’t joking.

“I like Sans Souci, for sentimental value,” he says. “My dad and mom used to take all five of us kids, and we picnicked there. Every so often nowadays, when my friends say, ‘Let’s have a picnic,’ I suggest Sans Souci. It’s a neat little beach.”

Part of Kapiolani Regional Park, Sans Souci lies at the Diamond Head end of Waikiki, beyond the War Memorial Natatorium and the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. The safe waters near its breakwater still attract families, but Sans Souci has earned another nickname--”Dig Me Beach”--for the young men and women who try to “out-bikini” each other on its shore.

“The clientele has changed over the years,” De Lima adds wryly.

“It’s not as family-oriented as when I remember it.”

Mazie Hirono--Hanauma Bay, Oahu

Hawaii’s lieutenant governor, Mazie Hirono, has such fond memories of Hanauma Bay, a spectacular turquoise arc carved into Oahu’s southeast shore, that she doesn’t go there anymore.

“There are certain things that should remain forever pristine in your memory, and that’s how I look at Hanauma,” she says.

“It is amazing how our natural areas can change over our lifetimes,” Hirono adds. “I lived out in the Koko Head area as a kid, when it was all farms. We would walk over that mountain into Hanauma Bay almost every day. It was easy to swim to the reef through the Keyhole [opening in the reef].”

Today, Hanauma Bay Nature Park is one of Hawaii’s top tourist attractions, to the point where officials are trying to stem the flow of beach-goers. Honolulu is planning to charge out-of-state residents $5 per person to enter the marine preserve starting July 1, a heretofore-unheard-of step in a state that prides itself on public access to the shoreline.

The crowds have kept her away for decades, Hirono says. But, she allows, there’s another reason for her absence: “It also involves getting into a bathing suit. As I said, some things should stay pristine in your mind--like how your figure used to be.”

Willie Kahaialii--Wahikuli State Wayside Beach Park, Maui

Willie Kahaialii, known as “Willie K” to fans of his contemporary Hawaiian music, has a soft spot in his heart for a beach near Lahaina where he fished as a child.

“The beach used to be called Sand Box, because the sand went all the way out, a couple of hundred yards from the shoreline,” says Kahaialii. Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki have eliminated much of the sand and exposed the reef since then, but “it’s still a nice place to go. It’s the only place I would swim.”

Wahikuli Beach is popular with those seeking a more serene scene than nearby Kaanapali. Scuba divers favor its safe waters to teach beginners. “Tourists stop by and people who like to meditate and read books or hang out in the sun and not be bothered for a couple of hours before they go to work,” says Kahaialii, who now lives in Honolulu.

“If you see a Harley parked on the side of the highway,” he adds with a chuckle, “that’s me swimming in the ocean.”

Glenn Medeiros--Mahaulepu Beach, Kauai

Pop singer and Honolulu resident Glenn Medeiros, 24, has come a long way from his hometown of Lawai, Kauai. Best known for his hit single, “Nothing’s Gonna Change My Love for You,” he has sold 7 million albums worldwide and spends much of the year touring.

But Medeiros’ favorite beach remains a breathtaking two-mile stretch of undeveloped shoreline hidden in the cane fields east of Koloa on Kauai’s southern shore. Because it is reached only via cane haul roads, it is largely a locals’ beach, he says.

“Our family used to go down every Sunday after church,” he remembers. “Not only is there good swimming, but a lot of fishing, great coral reefs. On one side of the beach is an amazing cliff that people dive off. Far on the left, it has a small natural pool of pure ocean water for the little kids.”

Mahaulepu attracts scientists as well as families because its sand dunes harbor burial sites and the fossils of extinct birds and native plants.

“There are petroglyphs buried under the sand,” Medeiros says. “Every once in a while, when the tide changes, they come up. That place has a lot of mana [spiritual power].”

Peter Merriman--Waipio Beach, Big

Island

Peter Merriman, owner and chef of the acclaimed Merriman’s restaurant in Waimea on the Big Island, thinks there’s more to a beach than sun and fun. There is food. And atmosphere. His choice? The black-sand beach in fabled Waipio Valley, accessible only by foot or four-wheel-drive vehicle.

“It’s a great place to go with a loaf of bread, a bit of cheese and a bottle of wine,” says Merriman, an avid hiker. “It’s not really a sunbather’s beach, but Waipio is really Hawaii.

“You get a taste of the culture,” he explains. “There is taro growing, and the vistas are incredible. If it has rained recently, there are waterfalls on both sides of the valley as well as the back. The wild horses add something to the atmosphere. And it’s a great surf spot. It’s got a little bit of everything.”

Pamela Young--Ala Moana Beach Park, Oahu

With its tranquil lagoon and ample shade trees, just minutes from downtown, Ala Moana Beach Park is a favorite of many local families.

Pamela Young, a Honolulu television anchor, says Ala Moana “is and always has been” tops for her. “It’s where I learned to swim,” Young says. “I have a lot of fond memories of midnight picnics and going crabbing in the lagoon.

“A few tourists make it to Ala Moana, and it’s much easier to meet them there,” she adds. “People talk to each other in a friendly way. For me, the best time is either early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is either coming up or going down. There’s a light on the water that you don’t find anywhere else in the world.”

JoAnn Yukimura--Hanalei Bay, Kauai

JoAnn Yukimura, mayor of Kauai when it was struck by Hurricane Iniki in 1992, has returned to private life and once again has time to go to the beach. “I don’t remember getting into the ocean for a year after Iniki,” she says, “and when I did, it was a great joy.”

Her family’s favorite hangout is Hanalei Bay, the two-mile-long crescent of sand behind Hanalei. Yukimura has been going there since she was a baby and continues the tradition with her husband and daughter.

County law restricts commercial development to the nearby Princeville resort area, thus Hanalei Bay has stayed relatively pristine. “We spend quite a bit of time Boogie boarding or surfing there,” Yukimura says. “When you get out into the ocean and look back at the mountains, it’s an absolutely spectacular view. I’m sure it’s one of the most beautiful bays in the world.”

Wyland--Makena Beach, Maui

Michigan-born Wyland, an artist known for his life-size murals of humpback whales in their natural habitat, has adopted Hawaii as his home. He chose his top beach not just for what’s on the shore, but for what inhabits the waters nearby.

“My favorite by far is Makena Beach, past Wailea,” Wyland says. “The water there is always clean and turquoise. It’s a really natural place to swim and body surf, and the snorkeling’s good.”

During the winter, humpback whales frolic in the channel fronting the beach. And here, Wyland has discovered an invisible treat, just 10 or 20 feet off shore.

“The sandy bottom goes out to the open ocean,” he says. “If you go under water and hold your breath and listen, it’s a perfect amphitheater of humpback whale music. The key is to be very still. You’ll hear their songs in stereo.”

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GUIDEBOOK

Insider Beaches

Big Island (Island of Hawaii)

Green Sand Beach on Mahana Bay: Located 2.5 miles northeast of Kaulana Boat Ramp, South Point. From Hawaii 11 (Hawaii Belt Road), take South Point Road. Near its end, take the left fork until the road becomes a rutted, dirt path. Use four-wheel drive only, or walk 30 to 45 minutes. Hike gingerly to the beach down its southern cliff, not the steeper side. No shade or water. No facilities.

Waipio Valley: Roughly 10 miles northwest of Honokaa on the Hamakua Coast. Take Hawaii 19 (Hawaii Belt Road) north to Honokaa and pick up Hawaii 240 to Waipio Valley State Park Lookout. Use commercial shuttle service (Waipio Valley Shuttle; telephone 808-775-7121), or four-wheel drive only, down the narrow, steep road into Waipio Valley. No facilities.

Kauai

Hanalei Bay: Take Hawaii 56 (Kuhio Highway) to Hanalei on Kauai’s North Shore. Turn right, toward the ocean, after Ching Young Village shopping center to reach Weke Road, which runs parallel to the beach. Along it are Waioli Beach Park, Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park and Black Pot Beach Park. Lifeguard, picnic tables, showers and toilets, parking.

Lumahai Beach: Take Hawaii 56 (Kuhio Highway) north past Hanalei. A Hawaii Visitors Bureau marker notes the Lumahai scenic overlook, and a steep trail leads down to the beach. Minimal parking. No facilities.

Mahaulepu Beach: Take Hawaii 50 (Kaumualii Highway) west to Hawaii 520 south to Poipu. Head east on Poipu Road, past Keoneloa Bay, until you reach a gate. Access is via Grove Farm Co. property (tel. 808-245-7177), and sign-in at a beach entrance guard shack is required. No facilities.

Maui

Makena Beach (also known as Oneloa Beach): This undeveloped, unmarked area is divided into two beaches: Big Beach, a large, popular sand expanse, and Little Beach, a nude beach reached by trail from Big Beach’s north end. Makena Beach is located beyond the Maui Prince Hotel at Makena. Take Hawaii 31 (Piilani Highway) to Wailea Resort. Follow Wailea Alanui to Makena Alanui past the Prince Hotel. Take the road to the ocean. No facilities.

Wahikuli Beach: Take Hawaii 30 (Honoapiilani Highway) to west Maui. Wahikuli State Wayside Beach Park is located beyond the town of Lahaina, across from the police station. Picnic tables, showers, toilets, parking.

Oahu

Ala Moana Beach Park: 1201 Ala Moana Blvd. Located across from Ala Moana Shopping Center, between downtown Honolulu and Waikiki. Lifeguard, picnic tables, food concession, showers and toilets, parking.

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve: 7455 Kalanianaole Highway. Take Hawaii 1 east to Hawaii 72 (Kalanianaole Highway), past Koko Marina Shopping Center. Hanauma Bay is part of Koko Head Regional Park. Lifeguard, food concession, showers and toilets, parking.

Ke Iki Beach: Nickname for a stretch of beach off Ke Iki Road, parallel to Hawaii 99 (Kamehameha Highway) on the North Shore. Public access to the beach on either side of the Ke Iki Hale hotel (59-579 Ke Iki Road, Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712; tel. 808-638-8229). Minimal parking along Ke Iki Road. No facilities. Parking and facilities available at neighboring Pupukea Beach Park, 59-727 Kamehameha Highway.

Sans Souci: 2863 Kalakaua Ave. Across from Kapiolani Regional Park. Located between the War Memorial Natatorium and the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel. Lifeguard, picnic tables, showers, toilets nearby, parking.

Waimea Bay Beach Park: 61-031 Kamehameha Highway, Waimea. Take Interstate H1 west to Interstate H2 north heading for the North Shore. Pick up Hawaii 99 at Wahiawa, through Haleiwa to Waimea. Lifeguard, picnic tables, showers and toilets, limited parking.

For complete information on Hawaii’s beaches, see John R. Clark’s excellent series of books, “The Beaches of Oahu,” “The Beaches of Maui County,” “Beaches of the Big Island” and “Beaches of Kauai and Nihau,” published by University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu.

Dr. Beach: An Expert Picks, L17