Hearts and Plates Full of Soul

To qualify as a soulful soul food restaurant in my book, several conditions should be met: Good fried chicken, oxtails and short ribs should share the menu with a dish or two so down and dirty, that many folks would cringe at the thought of ordering it. A dish like hog maws.

Showing the owners’ care for their families and employees, the place should be closed at least two nights a week.

And the restaurant must prove it indeed does have a soul by doing something for the community it serves, such as helping to feed the hungry and homeless in the area.

Jacob’s Cafe, at 47th Street and Broadway, comes through with flying colors on all three points.

The menu, in addition to fine renditions of soul food standbys, does offer hog maws (pig stomach) and pigtails.

The restaurant is closed Fridays and Saturdays, “so we can be with our families and have fun,” says Carolyn Jacobs-Celestine, the restaurant’s owner and chef.

Lastly, at the end of the day, a long line of hungry and homeless line up as Jacob’s gives away all the food that has not been sold that day.

Opened in 1947, Jacob’s may be the city’s oldest soul food restaurant. Located in a strip mall, the atmosphere inside is homey. Photos of Ella Fitzgerald and Pearl Bailey share the walls with artwork depicting African American family life.

The most popular order is fried chicken ($6.90), served Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, half a bird served with greens, beans, rice and buttermilk corn sticks. The chicken, crisp and moist, is coated with garlic, paprika, onions, salt and pepper, then dredged in flour. Monday’s top special, catfish filet ($7), is marinated in soy sauce and garlic, coated with corn meal and fried.

As for the hog maws ($6.25), served Wednesdays , the pig’s stomach is boiled with liquid smoke, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, garlic and chile powder. Some may be put off by it, but it’s good for the soul.

Jacob’s Cafe is at 4705 S. Broadway, Los Angeles. (213) 233-3803. Open Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.