fusion at pdc Pleases Palates and Eyes

There’s no hint of it from the street. And once inside the blue glass walls of the Pacific Design Center in West Hollywood, you may have to ask for directions at the Information Desk. But fusion at pdc, the design center’s new restaurant, is open and worth a hike through “the blue whale,” past rug dealers, vintage treasures, endless sofas.

At the edge of a huge courtyard, the restaurant’s light-drenched space is all pale smooth woods, velvets and moires, greens and blues. There’s a handsome bar at one end and along the walls, long sinuous banquettes and sleek booths. The look is museum lunch room, perfect for the decorator crowd. Heavy flatware, combination salt-and-pepper shakers, bread baskets are all chosen with an eye for good contemporary design, making it a pleasure to sit down to lunch or dinner here.

The menu is fresh and interesting, especially at lunch. (Bruce Marder of West Beach Cafe and Rebecca’s in Venice is the consultant.) A seductive Parmesan potato crepe is filled with good mashed potatoes and napped with a vivid green herb sauce. You can also start with lobster spring rolls, or a bowl of vegetable borscht. At lunch, pasta comes in full or half orders. And there are a couple of terrific sandwiches like the honey-roasted pork with red cabbage slaw on toasted country bread. And on the more serious entree side, a perfectly cooked piece of baby veal liver with crisped pancetta, and potatoes stacked like dominoes.

For dessert, look no further than the classic hot fudge sundae made with vanilla bean ice cream, softly whipped cream, whole toasted almonds and real fudge sauce--the kind that turns hard when it hits the cold.

The restaurant plans to have jazz piano on Thursday nights when the Design Center will be open late, too. But every night except Sunday, fusion at pdc hangs in there until 1:30 a.m. with a late-night menu.

* fusion at pdc, 8687 Melrose Ave., (310) 659-6012. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday, for lunch Monday through Friday, brunch on Sunday. Major credit cards accepted. Appetizers $4-$14; entrees $12-$24. Valet parking.