A ‘Mediterr-Asian’ Flavor at Beverly Hills’ Papashon

Remember the old French stalwart Andre’s of Beverly Hills on Wilshire Boulevard just west of La Cienega? In an attempt to jump on the Italian restaurant bandwagon, Andre’s was reborn, briefly, as Andre’s La Trattoria. Now partners Ramon Papa and Sean Sheridan of Papashon in Pasadena have opened their second restaurant on the spot.

The space never looked better. In the bar, graceful oval tables are set in front of banquettes. Lush potted palms and red bromeliads give the dining room a vaguely tropical look. Gorgeous handblown glass sconces cast a soft golden light. And the former pizza oven up front is now used to roast the fish of the day and an Asian-inspired vegetable platter with shiitake mushroom wonton.

Chef Sean Sheridan (the “shon” in Papashon) likes to call his wildly eclectic cuisine “Mediterr-Asian” and boldly juggles Asian and European ingredients and techniques with abandon. There’s poisson cru a la Japon (sashimi with seaweed and golden caviar in a Maui onion vinaigrette), shrimp toast with a refreshing persimmon dipping sauce, and a big, juicy pork chop in a Chinese marinade served with peppercorn sauce and mashed new potatoes. But an appetizer of “marinated Shanghai sweetbreads and Brie, lightly tempura-battered with an Asian chili sauce” may be taking creativity a bit too far. Still, the menu is varied enough to offer something for everybody. And it is something different. Something not Italian.

A third, even larger Papashon opens in Encino on Dec. 10.

* Papashon, 8635 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 360-0807. Open for dinner daily, for lunch Monday through Friday. Major credit cards accepted. Appetizers $5-$10; entrees $14-$24. Valet parking.