In a (Christmas) Stew
Seafood soups are a traditional Christmas Eve main course in Italian families, and this recipe is one of my favorites. The soup base is simply sauteed onions and garlic with white wine, canned tomatoes and the natural juices from the poached seafood.
Saffron, the orange-colored stigma of the crocus flower, best known for the color and aroma it imparts to the paella of Spain and the classic risotto alla Milanese of northern Italy, adds an exotic taste to the delicate tomato broth. The harvesting and processing of saffron are so labor-intensive that it is said to be the most expensive spice in the world, but fortunately a few threads go a long way. I use a pinch, which to my eye means just five to six fine threads.
As much a stew as it is a soup, this dish is surprisingly simple to make. Because the seafood should be quickly cooked in the broth just before serving, it makes sense to prepare the tomato broth ahead and cook the seafood in the hot broth minutes before serving.
Be flexible when selecting the seafood. This more elaborate version uses clams, mussels, a piece of fish and a giant shrimp, but I have made this soup successfully with all mussels or a combination of mussels and clams.
Served ladled over crostini, or thick slices of Italian bread that have been brushed with olive oil and toasted in the oven, the soup takes on a stew-like quality and makes a very filling main dish. Follow with a salad of arugula, orange slices and walnuts. For dessert, serve a plate of California medjool dates.
SEAFOOD SOUP WITH SAFFRON-TOMATO BROTH
SOUP
12 mussels
12 small clams, littleneck, Manila Bay or mahogany
1/2 cup very hot tap water
5 to 6 threads of saffron
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, halved lengthwise, cut into thin lengthwise slices
1 clove garlic, bruised with side of knife
1 (1/2x2-inch) strip orange zest
1 sprig fresh basil or Italian parsley
1 cup dry white wine
1 (28-ounce) can Italian-style plum tomatoes with juice
4 jumbo shrimp
1 (12-ounce) firm white fish steak, cod, halibut, shark or monkfish, cut into 1-inch chunks
Place shellfish in large bowl and rinse with several changes of cold water. Drain. Pull beard from each mussel. Return to bowl. Cover with dampened paper towels. Refrigerate until ready to cook.
Place hot water in small bowl and add saffron threads. Cover and let stand until ready to use.
Select large broad saucepan or deep skillet with tight-fitting lid. Heat olive oil over low heat. Add onion and garlic. Saute, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat, 5 minutes or until onion is tender. Add orange zest and basil.
Add wine. Over high heat bring mixture to hard boil. Boil 1 minute. Add tomatoes and bring to boil, stirring and breaking up tomatoes with side of spoon. Add saffron threads and soaking liquid. Simmer, uncovered, over low heat 10 minutes. Can be prepared ahead up to this point and refrigerated. Bring broth to boil before continuing.
Arrange mussels and clams in single layer in simmering broth. Add shrimp and pieces of fish. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until clams and mussels are opened and seafood is cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Do not overcook.
To serve, place 1 to 2 pieces of Crostini in bottom of each of 4 shallow soup bowls. Add seafood, dividing evenly. Divide broth among soup plates and serve.
CROSTINI
1 loaf day-old Italian bread
Olive oil
1 clove garlic, cut
Cut bread into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Brush each slice lightly with olive oil to taste. Rub with cut side of piece of garlic.
Place on baking sheet. Toast at 350 degrees until golden, about 20 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.
ARUGULA, ORANGE AND WALNUT SALAD
2 bunches arugula, rinsed, stems trimmed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
2 large navel oranges, rind and pith removed, thinly sliced
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
Toss arugula, olive oil and dash salt in large bowl. Divide evenly among 4 salad plates. Arrange 3 to 4 thin orange slices, overlapping, on each plate. Season to taste with pepper.
Toast walnuts in skillet until fragrant. Sprinkle over oranges.
Makes 4 servings.