Paddle-Wheeling the Northwest

The new paddle-wheel riverboat Queen of the West, based in Portland, Ore., for Columbia River cruises, began its first full season in March, after extensive repairs were made to a faulty hydraulic system. The problems delayed its scheduled debut in the summer 1995.

But everything is shipshape now, according to Capt. Robert Wengel, and passengers on a late March sailing were enjoying their cruise despite still-chilly temperatures in the Northwest.

Seven-night cruises aboard the 165-passenger boat begin at $945 per person, double occupancy, and sail along the Columbia, Willamette and Snake rivers, touching ports in Washington, Oregon and Idaho.

The new Seattle-based cruise line, American West Steamboat Co., was founded by Bob Giersdorf, who formerly operated now-defunct Exploration Cruise Line. He also recently sold his two-ship company, Glacier Bay Tours and Cruises, as well as the Glacier Bay Lodge in Alaska, to a Native American corporation in Juneau.

According to the line’s vice president and general manager, Michael Lomax, Giersdorf will concentrate on developing the riverboat company and plans to construct a second vessel to cruise Washington’s Puget Sound.

Cruise passengers familiar with the Delta Queen Steamboat Co.’s riverboats cruises on the Mississippi will find some similarities aboard Queen of the West--a tootling calliope, an on-board historian/lecturer, snacks, such as hot buttered popcorn and oversize hot dogs. But there are also some differences.

Meals are served at a single open seating. There is live entertainment brought aboard nightly to supplement the trio and the singer who belts out sing-along ballads and blues in the Paddlewheel Lounge, a stunning, glass-walled aft area where tables have an eye-level view of the churning red wheel.

Some of the performers include Matt “Maverick” Burton, who does card and magic tricks; Dallas McKennon, one of the stars of TV’s “Daniel Boone” from the 1960s, who does an Oregon Trail historical narrative with music; country and western musicians; “Golden Oldies” singers, and a 10-piece big band for a “Let’s Dance” evening.

Shore excursions, all included in the base price, include a visit to Hood River and a ride on its scenic railroad through the fruit orchards; a stop in Pendleton for tours of the famous Pendleton Woolen Mills and the old cowboy town’s underground bars, brothels and rooming houses; a western barbecue lunch and a performance of tribal dances; a jet boat excursion through Hell’s Canyon; a tasting and tour of a Washington state winery, and a stop at Lewis and Clark’s Ft. Clatsop in historic Astoria.

Six suites and 67 outside double cabins make up the accommodations on board, with all but two cabins opening to an inside hallway rather than to the deck outside. Those two open to an enclosed private porch next to the top deck and wheelhouse.

Some suites and cabins in every category have private verandas. Furnishings are handsome, and bathrooms are fairly spacious, all with showers rather than tubs.

All cabins have windows, sitting area, TV/VCR, twin or double beds (a few of the cheapest have a lower single bed and fold-down upper berth), a closet/armoire, and a desk/dresser.

The cuisine aboard emphasizes the foods and wines of the Pacific Northwest, with fresh salmon, scallops, halibut and steamer clams, as well as seasonal fruits and vegetables.

Chef Michael Quick figures he rustles up 550 meals a day, with all desserts and baking done from scratch and hot fresh rolls served at lunch and dinner daily. He uses all fresh produce and dairy products, and offers vegetarian and low-fat offerings on every menu.

Breakfasts offer a chef’s special of the day, perhaps blintzes with Oregon wild berries or Idaho potatoes with poached eggs and bacon. Fresh clam chowder, Dungeness crab cakes, Washington state rack of lamb, Tillamook cheese, Oregon pears, Walla Walla sweet onions and fiddlehead ferns are frequently on the dinner menu, along with Pacific Northwest wines from $12 to $55 a bottle, or $3 by the glass.

Departures on the three-, four-, five- or seven-night sailings are scheduled through Dec. 30, with most summer sailings set for seven nights. Air fare is not included in the cruise fares, which range from $945 to $3,945 per person, double occupancy, depending on season and cabin category.

The vessel is appropriate for wheelchair passengers, since there is an elevator and two cabins designated accessible. But we don’t recommend bringing babies and small children aboard because there is no child-care program nor play space aboard.

For a free color brochure, see a travel agent or call (800) 434-1232.

Slater and Basch travel as guests of the cruise lines. Cruise Views appears the first and third week of every month.