In Spring, a Cook’s Fancy Turns to Herbs

As the garden world awakens, the first shoots emerging in the dark soil of my garden are perennial herbs. By this month, the clump of chives that I planted four summers ago has become a healthy bundle of spear-like shoots; by June, it will be flowering profusely. As I walk among the herb garden steppingstones, the earth gives off a rich, warm smell and the cook in me rejoices that fresh herbs are back on the menu.

I always encourage friends who cook to start an herb garden. Even on a sunny windowsill or in a pot on the back porch, herbs will flourish.

Herb plants like sun and sandy soil that allows good drainage; most potting soils are fine because they have the nutrients to let the plants develop strong roots.

Augment your garden soil if it’s too heavy with clay, but don’t make the soil too rich. Some gardeners believe that poorer soil produces stronger-tasting herbs. If you make your own mixture, experts recommend a third each (by weight) of soil, sand and compost.

Favorite cooking herbs that are easy to start from seed include basil, chervil, coriander, sweet marjoram, parsley, savory and chives. Dillweed seeds don’t germinate as easily as some others; thyme, rosemary, tarragon, mint and sage grow best from cuttings. Look for these herbs in pots at nurseries.

When your herb plants look healthy and show plenty of new growth, you can begin cutting sprigs to use for recipes. Fresh herbs are less concentrated than dried, so use twice as much when you’re substituting fresh.

Clip (and use) your fresh herbs often, and pinch back any flowers that try to grow. This keeps the plant’s flavor in the leaves, where you can make use of it. Clipping the plant also encourages it to produce faster.

SPRING GREENS WITH GARLIC-HERB DRESSING

When your herb garden yields enough to add to a recipe, try this elegant salad with fresh herb vinaigrette. The tangy taste of the arugula, a type of mustard green sometimes known as rocket, blends well with the sweet orange-and-honey dressing. If arugula is unavailable, substitute an equal amount of curly endive or leaf lettuce.

1 cup shredded red cabbage

1 cup torn arugula leaves

2 cups torn green leaf lettuce

1 cup fresh corn kernels

1 large seedless navel orange, peeled and sectioned

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 teaspoons honey or sugar

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh chives

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh parsley

Toss together red cabbage, arugula, leaf lettuce and corn in large salad bowl.

Puree orange segments, lemon juice, honey, vinegar, oil, mustard, garlic, salt and pepper in blender. Stir in chives and parsley. Pour over greens and toss. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Each of 4 servings contains about:

139 calories; 176 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.81 gram fiber.

SPINACH HERB PIE

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 cups thinly sliced mushrooms

1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

4 cups spinach, stemmed, coarsely chopped

2 cups part-skim ricotta cheese

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 unbaked (9-inch) pie shell

Fresh herbs make all the difference, flavor-wise, in this savory spinach pie. It resembles a soft quiche.

Heat oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet. Add mushrooms and saute over medium heat until they begin to exude moisture, about 8 minutes, stirring often (if mushrooms stick, add 1 tablespoon water). Add oregano, thyme and spinach. Cover and cook 2 minutes.

Remove cover and turn up heat to rapidly cook off any liquid in pan. Remove from heat and set aside. Stir in ricotta cheese and eggs. Pour mixture into pie shell. Bake at 325 degrees until set and lightly browned, about 45 minutes.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

415 calories; 253 mg sodium; 96 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.60 gram fiber.

CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP WITH FRESH ROSEMARY

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon olive oil

1/4 cup dry white wine or apple juice

1 large bunch broccoli, chopped

1 cup peeled and cubed baking potatoes

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 crushed bay leaves, wrapped in cheesecloth or placed in tea ball for easy removal

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

2 cups defatted chicken or vegetable broth

1 cup nonfat milk

Salt, pepper

Cream of broccoli soup will never taste the same once you’ve tried it with fresh rosemary. Finely chop the rosemary before adding to the soup.

Combine onion, oil and wine in 3-quart soup pot and saute over medium-high heat until soft but not browned. Add broccoli, potatoes, garlic, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme and basil. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Add broth and bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes or until potatoes are soft. Let soup cool slightly. Puree 2 cups soup in blender, then return to pot. Add milk and heat through. Remove bay leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

117 calories; 421 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.17 grams fiber.