Storm From Tahiti Will Bring High Surf to Southland

Southern California lifeguards are geared up for a large south swell, fueled by a storm from Tahiti, that is expected to hit Southland beaches today, producing five- to eight-foot waves in many areas and surf up to 20 feet at some south-facing beaches in Orange County.

The swell--possibly the biggest of the year--was already beginning to show on Tuesday with reports of five- to six-foot breakers. It was expected to build during the night, hit a high today or Thursday, and drop slowly through Saturday.

“You don’t get surf this big too often,” said Sean Collins of Surfline/Wavetrak, a Huntington Beach surf forecast firm. “This is bigger than your average big one.”

Surfline tracked the storm 500 miles southeast of Tahiti last week by satellite and electronic ocean buoys, recording 60-knot winds and 45-foot waves.

Newport Beach Marine Lt. Eric Bauer said two Jeep patrols and an extra tower lifeguard were added Tuesday after lifeguards received news about the large breakers in a surf alert issued by Surfline.

“There’s part of a south swell already starting to show and we had reports that the Wedge was overhead at six to eight feet,” Bauer said of conditions at Newport’s famed surfing spot Tuesday. “If the surf continues to build we’ll add on more staff. With the surf up, we want to make sure that nothing happens.”

The swell promises to be so large that high surf is expected all the way up the coastline to Ventura County. From El Segundo to Topanga, the surf is expected to be in the four- to six-foot range, but sets of up to 10 feet are expected from Zuma Beach to the Los Angeles-Ventura County line, according to Surfline.

On the south-facing shore in Orange County, Huntington and Newport beaches are expected to get five- to eight-foot waves with some breakers reaching 12 feet. At the Wedge, at the end of Balboa Peninsula, the surf is expected to be in the 10- to 20-foot range.

The Wedge, one of California’s premier bodysurfing venues, comes alive on powerful south swells that deflect off a rock jetty and double in size.

The surf will be biggest at Orange County beaches because the Palos Verdes Peninsula and Santa Catalina Island partially block a south swell and reduce the size of the waves at many Los Angeles County beaches.

Still, Los Angeles County lifeguards are preparing for a busy few days.

“If we get some hot days and the surf is really pounding it’ll be hectic,” said Zuma Beach lifeguard Bill Robinson. “We may have to double and triple up in some towers.”

At Huntington Beach, where beach crowds average 50,000 on summer weekdays, lifeguards were preoccupied with the onslaught, said Lifeguard Lt. Mike Beuerlein.

“We have a heightened awareness right now and if the surf continues to build, we can call extra people if necessary,” Beuerlein said.

Lifeguard officials fear that swimmers could enter the water during a lull, swim out and find themselves staring at eight-foot waves with a powerful rip current, said San Clemente Marine Safety Officer Steve Lashbrook.

“We already have solid five-foot waves breaking here,” Lashbrook said, “and the rip currents are already cranking away.”

Lashbrook advised swimmers and surfers to check with lifeguards before entering the water. Red flags mean that dangerous surf conditions exist and swimmers are advised not to enter the water.

“If you do find yourself in a rip current, swim parallel to shore--that is, sideways--until you are out of the current,” Lashbrook said. “If you’re not a good swimmer, wave your hands above your head for lifeguard assistance.”

Lifeguards advised that only advanced swimmers and surfers should consider entering the ocean during high surf conditions.

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Surf’s Up

A storm that slammed 30-foot waves into Tahiti last week is bringing some of the summer’s biggest sets onto county shores. But with 10- to 12-foot surf come dangerous riptides that can quickly pull a swimmer under water and out to sea. Expect the peak to subside by Saturday.

Escaping a Rip Current

Rip currents are commonly created when a large amount of water is funneled by beach topography into narrow channels, then out to sea. A common mistake by swimmers in a rip current is trying to swim straight to shore. The proper way to escape:

[A] Allow current to move you seaward; don’t try to swim against the current, as this can drain your strength.

[B] Once the current weakens, normally less than 100 yards from shore, swim parallel to the beach until the rip current disappears.

[C] Swim toward the shore, riding incoming waves if possible.

Sources: Surfline-Wavetrak

Researched by APRIL JACKSON / Los Angeles Times