Rota Rooter : A new fan of this ‘secret’ island tells where it is and why we haven’t heard of it before

The dirt road wound upward past a Japanese cannon peering from a hillside cave, through a rocky-walled passage sprouting delicate lavender orchids and on into fields of taro and uncultivated scrub. I was on my way to the top of Mt. Sabana, the highest point on the 35-square mile island of Rota, just northeast of Guam. Near the summit I paused at the Peace Memorial with its flags of three governments: the United States, Japan and the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, of which Rota is a part. The post-World War II memorial seemed oddly out of place here, on a road that could only be attempted with four-wheel-drive and heavy-duty axles. Although I was close to what I’d been told was the most magnificent view on the island, there was no one else on the road and I doubted that many come here.

The road ended near the top, and I got out to walk the short distance to the edge of a sheer cliff. Stretched out before me, the Pacific glimmered a deep sapphire, paling to turquoise at the island’s edge. The streets of Songsong, the main village, crisscrossed the peninsula below that extended like a finger curving toward Guam, barely visible on the horizon.

In fact, it may be everybody’s dream of an idyllic place--a remote, palm-fringed Pacific island surrounded by some of the clearest water in the world. Because it’s a U.S. Commonwealth, a status similar to that of Puerto Rico, a stay is generally uncomplicated by health concerns, language problems or currency conversions. The official language is English; the currency is the dollar.

Yet the island is pristine, unspoiled and undiscovered by the tourist throngs. But perhaps not for long. Until the new Rota Resort and Country Club opened its doors in June 1995, accommodations were limited to a handful of small hotels that took care of the guests who trickled in, but did little to attract them. Now the Rota Resort is marketing Rota aggressively, primarily to Japanese tourists, for whom the island is only a three-hour flight away.

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Like many visitors to Rota, I had come to scuba dive. But I also found myself fascinated by the place above water: the lazy, sun-bleached villages, the tangled green of tropical forests, the plumeria-scented air. I was drawn by the atmosphere heavy with history, both ancient and modern, from mysterious stone artifacts--called latte stones--erected centuries ago by the indigenous Chamorros, to the abandoned cannons and rail tracks of the more recent war years. (The U.S. capture of the Marianas from Japan was one of the largest military operations in all of World War II.)

The island’s 2,000 residents live primarily in Songsong, perched at the southwestern edge of the island on a peninsula that juts out into the Pacific. Mt. Taipingot, also known as Wedding Cake Mountain because of its layered appearance and flat top, rises at the farthest point of the peninsula that cradles Sosanjaya Bay, a large, protected harbor.

Rota’s western shores are lined with sandy beaches and rocky tide pools, while the east coast is ringed by sheer cliffs. Much of Rota’s flora and fauna is found nowhere else on Earth.

I’ve made two trips to Rota, the last one in September, staying on the island’s northwest side at the Coconut Village Hotel--10 duplexes, a restaurant and a pool built on the site of an old coconut plantation about five miles from Songsong. On my first visit, as I drove a mile down the cutoff marked with the hotel’s name, I couldn’t believe I had taken the right turn. The one-lane dirt road was so deeply pot-holed that I was afraid of breaking an axle--and I understood why my rental car seemed to have no shocks.

Yet just as I was ready to give up and go back, the small Pacific-style cottages appeared, staggered across a small ridge overlooking the water. It’s an idyllic setting, quiet and beautiful, and though not the most luxurious accommodation on Rota, it was my favorite.

I would be remiss if I didn’t say that Rota seems ripe for a new breed of tourist--those who want their paradise served up with a bit of luxury. On an island where a swimming pool traditionally has been considered the outer limits of pampering, the Rota Resort came almost as a shock. Owned by the SNM Corporation, which operates large hotels in Madrid and London, it offers amenities never before available on the island. I went there for a daytime visit and later for two dinners. Set high on a hillside overlooking a brilliant sea, the resort has a stunning view, an 18-hole golf course with pro shop and grill, a swimming pool with poolside bar and casual restaurant, 60 guest suites and a full service dining room.

Since my last visit, another new hotel has opened. The Rota Hotel, situated by the ocean on the road that runs between Songsong and the airport, is also large by island standards, with 32 rooms, some of them suites, and pricey!

Although I spent part of most days diving, I used the rest of my time to explore the island topside. Aside from some sun worshipers on the beaches, I had the place mostly to myself.

I spent a morning visiting the Rota Zoo, a small “mom and pop” affair run by local Beato Calvo and his wife, Julie. Beato showed me around the zoo and garden of local flowering and fruit-bearing plants. Rota ducks, distinctive with their black and red bills, swam placidly in a small pond. Deer stared warily from their hillside home. Coconut crabs, so named for their choice of food, rummaged around in a pen.

But Beato’s pride are his fruit bats. They are becoming nearly extinct on Rota, he explained, because they are considered a great delicacy, particularly for soup. He invited me into their aviary and allowed me to feed them small cherries. They accepted the fruit delicately, carefully avoiding contact between their tiny teeth and my fingertips. One of his bats recently gave birth, Beato told me, the only such birth in captivity he has heard of.

Another morning excursion took me to the Taga Stone Quarry where centuries ago giant latte stones were cut from the rock. These stone structures, unique to the Mariana Islands, can be found hidden in the jungle all over the island. Consisting of tall pillars capped by another stone flattened at the top, latte stones are believed to have been used as supports for thatched buildings. Because the two stone parts are not joined but can actually pivot, it is thought that they were designed to withstand the earthquakes that plague the area. No one knows how the stones were cut because archeologists do not think the ancient Chamorros had tools capable of such work.

The quarry, an open area surrounded by plumeria trees and hibiscus bushes, has an eerie feel to it. There is utter quiet here on the uninhabited northeast side of the island. Limestone latte stones lie scattered over the ground, some half-carved, some completely finished except for removal from the bedrock. Now overgrown with moss and grass, the 5-foot-deep indentations that have been cut through solid rock remain a mystery.

I spent a day driving the road that follows the perimeter of the island. With only 35 square miles, this doesn’t sound like much. But only one section of the road, from Songsong to the Coconut Village Hotel cutoff, is paved. The rest is a jouncing, slow-going trek over sand.

Beginning from Coconut Village I headed northeast, stopping first at the Swimming Hole, a natural “aquarium” that traps fish during high tides. It is large enough to snorkel in, offering a protected environment for getting acquainted with the local marine life. It’s a favorite spot among locals for picnicking and socializing.

Farther northeast is Mochon Beach, Rota’s most pristine and isolated beach. It was nearly deserted that day, and I spent an hour or so walking through gentle turquoise waves, studying shells and small fish that darted through the shallow water.

I stopped at As Manmos Cliff, on the island’s extreme northeast corner, where waves crashing against the rocks below sent spray up through gaps in the cliff, making picture-taking an impossibility.

I drove on through Songsong, with its half-dozen family-run restaurants, two ice cream parlors and several small grocery stores. Back on the main road now, the driving was easier. Passing Teteto Beach, where I had enjoyed spectacular snorkeling on a previous day, I headed back to Coconut Village for a sunset dinner.

Rota food is a curious mixture of Chamorro, Philippine, Chinese, Japanese and American elements that defies description. I quickly learned to be prepared for surprises, as when my American-style pizza arrived covered with mozzarella and Chinese vegetables. The best meal I had on Rota was at Jack’s Ramen House, located, logically, in Jack’s house on a dusty Songsong side street, in the back room he opens up only in the evenings.

When not exploring Rota’s natural and historical sights, I was quite content to be underwater. Dive Rota in Songsong, owned by ex-U.S. Navy diver Mark Michael and his wife, Lynne, is the island’s only dive shop. They question divers carefully about their experience level, Mark explained to me, because the depth of the dive sites, and tricky currents make diving on Rota inappropriate for novices.

Even if they’ve heard of nothing else on Rota, divers know about the Shoun Maru. Sunk by an American aerial torpedo in 1944, the 393-foot Japanese freighter lies in 110 feet of crystal-clear water at the bottom of Sosanjaya Bay. I dove the ship several times, always amazed at the clarity of the water that allowed me to see it clear-as-day the minute my mask went into the water.

I dove Senhanom Cave, Rota’s most dramatic dive. As the dive boat rounded Harnom Point below Mt. Taipingot and left the protection of Sosanjaya Bay, the waves grew larger, tossing the bow of the small boat into the air at regular intervals.

Beneath the surface, all was calm as we headed toward the entrance to the cave. Forty feet down, it loomed, large and dark. We entered the cave, turned on our dive lights and played them over the walls. Pairs of eerily glowing red eyes peered back at us: lobsters in their crevices. Pinkish-red squirrel fish hovered close to the walls, while hundreds of copper sweepers schooled in the open water. An octopus, angry at the invasion, writhed and swirled along the cave floor, colors morphing with seamless continuity.

As I turned to make my way back to the cave’s entrance, I was stopped short by the sight of the sun’s rays pouring in from an opening in the ceiling overhead, creating the illusion of a sapphire waterfall suspended in time. In the distance, a lone reef shark patrolled the entrance, its silhouette outlined against the blue ocean beyond.

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GUIDEBOOK: Route to Rota

Getting there: Continental Airlines flies direct LAX to Guam, changing planes in Honolulu; round-trip fares start around $1,275. From Guam’s commuter terminal it’s a half-hour to Rota on one of Pacific Island Aviation’s five daily flights. PIA flights are ticketed in the U.S. by Northwest Airlines.

Getting around: Most hotels offer transportation services (for a fee) to and from the airport, beaches and the dive shop, Dive Rota.

Where to stay: Coconut Village Hotel (P.O. Box 855, Rota, MP 96951; tel. 011-670-532-3448; fax 011- 670-532-3449) has 10 island-style duplexes, a restaurant and pool on the grounds of an old coconut plantation. Doubles are $104.50 ($125 April 29-May 5, Aug. 9-16, Dec. 28-Jan. 3) per night plus 10% tax; one of the island’s best bargains.

The Coral Garden Hotel (P.O. Box 597, Rota, MP 96951; tel. 011-670-532-3201; fax 011-670- 532-3204) on Sosanjaya Bay just outside of Songsong; doubles, $49.50 including taxes.

The Rota Resort and Country Club (P.O. Box 938, Rota, MP 96951; tel. 011-670-532-1155; fax 011-670-532-1156)), about five miles north of Songsong overlooking the ocean; two-bedroom suites, $350 per night, not including 10% occupancy tax but including breakfast and airport transfers.

The recently opened Rota Hotel (P.O. Box 878, Rota MP 96951; tel. 011-670-532-2000, fax 011-670- 532-3000); doubles $180 per night, double suites $340.

Where to eat: The best casual restaurant in Songsong is Valentino’s. It is unmarked and the street is not named, so ask locals for directions. Jack’s Ramen House is just outside of town; ask locals for directions. At Trattoria Luta (Luta is Chamorro for Rota) at the Rota Resort the menu is Italian with Pacific Rim overtones.

For more information: Contact the Marianas Visitors Bureau, P.O. Box 861, Saipan, MP 96950; tel. 011-670-234-8325; fax 011-670-234-3596.

--D.M.