Potato? Spell It C-H-E-A-P

You probably haven’t noticed, but there’s a boom market for potatoes this year. Prices are as low as they’ve been in several seasons, and the quality seems to be generally high.

Still, potato growers are skeptical that anyone will take advantage of it. “Our research shows that people generally don’t even know how much they’re paying for potatoes,” says Henry Michael, president of the Washington State Potato Commission. “They buy pretty much the same amount, whether they’re expensive or cheap.”

If ever there was a year to break that cycle, this is it. Potato growers, fat from last year’s high prices, planted more potatoes this year than ever before. As a result, the warehouses are up to their aisles in potatoes.

Wholesale prices for baking potatoes are one-half to one-third of what they were last year. Supermarket prices have been reported as low as $1.99 for a 20-pound bag.

For something that is so little regarded by shoppers, russet potatoes can be tricky little devils. Typically, they are harvested two to three weeks after the green part of the plant has died. During that time they cure, toughening the skin.

Once they’re dug, most potatoes are put into storage. Gradually, over a two-week period, they are cooled so the plant goes into dormancy. Once dormant, their respiration slows--kind of like one of those Indian yogis--and they can be stored for months without losing quality.

There are two main things to look for when buying russet potatoes. The first is fairly obvious: avoid any potatoes with cut marks or bruising. Beyond that, though, watch for potatoes with a greenish tinge to the skin. That is the result of a build-up of alkaloids caused by exposure to direct light.

Technically, this is poisonous, but you’d have to eat so many potatoes for it to have any effect that you’d probably have much more serious problems first. Green-tinged potatoes do have a bitter flavor, though, and should be avoided.

For that reason, at home you should store potatoes in a cool, dark place. Do not keep them in the refrigerator, though. That is too cold and the plant will begin converting its starch to sugar.

Just a reminder: russet potatoes (the ones with the rough skins) are floury and should be used for baking and for making light, fluffy mashed potatoes. Smooth-skinned potatoes are waxy and should be used for boiling and for making denser, lumpy mashed potatoes.