The Rise of the Informal Fall

Fall entertaining used to take on a serious note; there was a seasonal change in style when the simple foods of summer gave way to dishes that were more complicated and richer and the table was more formal. Those days are history.

Now we focus on the incredible seasonal produce mounded up at farmers’ markets. Forget formality and rich foods. We’re into straightforward, vibrant dishes.

This early fall menu fits the mood. Serve these foods family style--each recipe served on its own platter or in its own bowl to be passed at the table.

GRILLED LEMON GARLIC CHICKEN BREASTS WITH GREEK SALAD SALSA

GRILLED LEMON GARLIC CHICKEN

6 large skinned boneless chicken breast halves, about 6 ounces each, trimmed of fat

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/3 cup olive oil

1/3 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Put chicken in large plastic bag. Combine garlic, lemon juice, oil, mustard, salt and pepper in small dish. Add to chicken. Through bag, rub chicken breasts with marinade until coated. Close bag tightly. Chill 3 hours or as long as overnight.

To cook, prepare hot barbecue fire or preheat broiler. Grill or broil breasts until just cooked through, 7 to 10 minutes per side.

GREEK SALAD SALSA

2 tomatoes, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch dice, about 2 cups

1 cup thinly sliced green onions

1 cup seeded, peeled and diced cucumber

8 kalamata olives, cut into small bits

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/3 cup olive oil

1/2 cup finely snipped dill

Scant 1/2 teaspoon salt

Scant 1/2 teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground black pepper

2 ounces mild feta cheese (French feta is excellent), cut into 1/4-inch dice

Combine tomatoes, onions, cucumber, olives, lemon juice, olive oil, dill, salt, sugar and pepper. Set aside at room temperature about 3 hours. Just before using, mix in feta cheese.

Cut grilled chicken breasts crosswise into 1/3-inch thick slices. Arrange on warm platter, fanning out slices. Use slotted spoon to top with Greek salad salsa. Drizzle some salsa juices over. Serve hot or warm.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

423 calories; 1,027 mg sodium; 82 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 31 grams protein; 0.51 gram fiber.

SAUTEED ZUCCHINI WITH LEEKS AND BASIL

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 zucchini, about 3/4 pound each, cut into 1-inch chunks, about 6 to 7 cups

1 leek, white part only, sliced, about 2 cups

Salt

1/2 cup orange juice

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup thinly sliced basil leaves

Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, add zucchini, leeks and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Cook until just tender but not at all mushy, about 4 minutes, stirring often. Add orange juice, salt and pepper to taste. Cook 10 seconds. Adjust seasoning. Remove from heat. Stir in basil. Can be made ahead to just before adding basil and kept several hours at room temperature. Quickly reheat, adjust seasoning and stir in basil. Serve hot.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

75 calories; 303 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.60 gram fiber.

WARM PLUM AND RASPBERRY COOKIE CRISP

6 cups thinly sliced dark-skinned plums

2 tablespoons water

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 1/2 teaspoons quick-cooking tapioca

3/4 cup granulated sugar (1/4 cup more if plums are sour)

3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups raspberries

1 egg, separated

3/4 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup butter, chilled, cut into 8 pieces

3/4 cup flour

Pinch salt

Strawberry or vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt

Combine plums, water and vanilla in 6-cup round or rectangular glass baking dish. In small dish, combine tapioca, granulated sugar and 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon. Add to plums and toss until plums are well coated. Gently toss in raspberries. Set aside while preparing cookie topping.

Mix 1/2 egg yolk, brown sugar, butter, flour, remaining 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and salt in food processor until finely crumbed and just beginning to clump together. Do not over-process.

Spoon topping evenly over fruit. Gently pat to cover, then press more firmly so topping adheres to fruit. Whip egg white until frothy and brush onto crust. Place dish on baking sheet (to catch any juices).

Bake at 375 degrees until top is very dark brown and juices bubbling, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool at least 1 1/2 hours before serving. Can be made a day ahead; refrigerate after completely cooled. Reheat, uncovered, in 350-degree oven until warm, about 10 minutes. Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla or strawberry ice cream or frozen yogurt.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Each serving, without ice cream of yogurt, contains about:

515 calories; 215 mg sodium; 77 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 90 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.27 grams fiber.

* Baking dish from Bristol Kitchens, South Pasadena.