1994 Bodegas Reyes Teofilo Reyes Tinto Cosecha ($21.99)

For 74-year-old Teofilo Reyes, who retired in 1994 after two decades as winemaker for the acclaimed Pesquera estate in Spain's Ribera del Duero region, this first wine under his own name is something to celebrate. Made from Tinto del Pais, the local name for Tempranillo, and aged in American oak, the deeply colored wine bursts with luscious sweet fruit overlaid with a touch of smoke and anise. Instant gratification, it is sensational drinking now and will only improve with cellaring.

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