What Is the Food of Love?

Every society believes there are aphrodisiac foods. We think of oysters, champagne and chocolate, but a vast number of things have had a rep somewhere: anchovies, asparagus, brains, chiles and garlic, just for an alphabetic sample. Most are either stimulants or sources of protein, so a dinner of steak and coffee might qualify . . . though it just doesn’t, you know, sound romantic.