Just Ducky

A generation ago, roast duck with cherry sauce was what you would order in a special restaurant if you and your date wanted to be cool.

It still is in many circles, but a lot of today’s roast duck recipes are spicier and meatier than those of the ‘70s. You don’t need a syrupy, sweet sauce when you use fruit in an entree. Fruit can add a tart note and chewy texture without turning the main course into dessert.

A succulent example of contemporary roast duck is the dish that John Sarich, culinary director at the Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery in Woodinville, Wash., prepares. His duck breast with dried sweet cherries in a red wine-herb sauce uses a little honey, no more.

Creme bru^lee is another classic that has been deliciously updated. In the typical recipe, you bake a custard, then sprinkle it with sugar and broil it long enough for the sugar to melt into a golden crust.

Emily Luchetti, the former pastry chef at Stars in San Francisco, has an outstanding variation on creme bru^lee in her new book, “Four-Star Desserts” (HarperCollins, 1996). Instead of brushing the custard with sugar, she uses melted bittersweet chocolate, which firms to a crisp shell when refrigerated.

ROAST DUCK BREAST WITH CHERRIES IN A WINE-HERB SAUCE

Adapted from a recipe by John Sarich. Choose cherries that aren’t too sweet.

4 (6-ounce) boneless duck breast halves

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup chicken broth

1 cup Cabernet Franc, or other light red wine

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

1/3 cup dried cherries

1 tablespoon honey

1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Cooked angel hair pasta

Pierce duck skin in several places with sharp knife. Season duck on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat heavy-bottomed skillet. Place duck in skillet, skin side down, and brown until fat is rendered from skin, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown second side 1 to 2 minutes. Remove duck from skillet and set aside.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon duck fat. Add oil and heat. Add onion and garlic and saute until onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add broth, wine, thyme, parsley, cherries, honey and tomato paste. Bring to boil. Cook until liquid is reduced by one-third.

Remove and discard duck skin. Cut duck into 1/8-inch-thick slices, return to sauce and heat through, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, arrange mound of hot pasta on each of 2 plates. Top each with half of duck and half of sauce. Serve immediately.

2 servings. Each serving:

869 calories; 752 mg sodium; 262 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 66 grams carbohydrates; 78 grams protein; 0.93 gram fiber.

GINGER CREME BRU^LEE

This recipe was adapted from Emily Luchetti’s “Four-Star Desserts.”

3/4 cup milk

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon whipping cream

2 (1/4-inch-thick) slices ginger root

3 egg yolks

1 egg

1/4 cup sugar

Dash salt

1 ounce bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

Combine milk, cream and ginger slices in medium heavy-bottomed pan and scald over medium heat. Remove from heat. Cover and let sit 20 minutes.

Whisk together egg yolks, egg, sugar and salt in heat-proof bowl.

Increase heat under milk mixture and scald again. Remove ginger slices. Slowly pour milk mixture into egg mixture, whisking constantly. If desired, strain mixture into second bowl for smoother custard. Chill 1 hour.

Pour custard mixture into 2 (8-inch) ramekins. Place in small pan (a loaf pan is excellent) and pour in hot water halfway up sides of ramekins. Place sheet of foil over pan. Bake at 300 degrees until mixture is set but slightly quivery, about 1 hour. Remove ramekins from loaf pan. Cover and refrigerate until custard is thoroughly chilled, 4 to 6 hours.

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler set over simmering water. Gently spoon chocolate over each custard, smoothing with knife or back of spoon to create a thin chocolate crust. Return to refrigerator until chocolate is firm, about 30 minutes.

2 servings. Each serving:

787 calories; 257 mg sodium; 697 mg cholesterol; 66 grams fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.36 gram fiber.