The StrataStrategy

Stratas are a godsend when you have overnight guests. Put one together before they arrive, then transfer it from the refrigerator to the oven when you get up in the morning.

An hour of baking puffs the strata and turns it golden brown. Just brew coffee and prepare some fresh fruit for a satisfying breakfast or brunch.

You can cube the bread, rather than make “sandwiches,” particularly if you want to cut smaller servings. Use two-thirds of the ingredients in an 8-inch-square baking dish to make four servings.

As long as the basic egg and milk mixture is maintained, the type of bread, cheese, meat and other flavorings can be varied. For example, use:

* White and wheat bread with bits of ham, shredded Cheddar cheese and finely chopped onion. Add a little fresh thyme to the egg and milk mixture.

* Rye and white bread with bits of either corned beef or pastrami and shredded Swiss cheese. Stir a teaspoon of dry mustard and some caraway seeds into the beaten eggs before adding the milk.

* White bread with cooked shrimp, shredded Swiss cheese and chopped green onion. Use curry powder in the egg/milk mixture.

STRATA

6 slices bacon

6 slices white bread, trimmed of crusts

6 slices wheat bread, trimmed of crusts

1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) shredded Cheddar cheese

2 tablespoons minced shallots

6 eggs

3 cups milk

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Fry bacon until crisp. Cool, then break into small pieces.

Generously grease 13x9-inch glass baking dish. Arrange 6 bread slices in bottom of dish, alternating bread types if desired.

Sprinkle bacon pieces, cheese and shallots over bread. Top with remaining 6 bread slices, alternating or matching bread types.

Beat eggs in large bowl. Add milk and pepper. Pour mixture over sandwiches. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours or as long as overnight.

Uncover dish and bake at 325 degrees until puffed and golden brown and knife inserted near center comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes.

6 servings. Each serving:

464 calories; 663 mg sodium; 262 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 0.20 gram fiber.