Chasen-ed

It’s back. And it’s looking good. Chasen’s, the fabled industry hangout that closed its doors in 1995 after 59 years of serving its famous chili, cheese toast and hobo steak to the faithful and the famous, has been reborn several blocks away. In Beverly Hills. On the site of the former Bistro, to be precise.

Valets in billed caps hover out front ready to whisk your Rolls or Bentley around the corner. Inside, its 102 seats would fill only a corner of the old place. Yet it has a kind of retro glamour with its brown leather and tapestry booths, cherrywood floor and handsome wood paneling. The bar, set in a corner of the room, makes a mean martini. And over by the door, a pianist and violinist play nostalgic music from the ‘30s and ‘40s.

Right now chef Michael Otsuka is serving dinner only and relying (at least until this weekend) on a stripped-down starter menu to keep things running smoothly in the kitchen and the dining room. Classic starters like the cheese toast (grated Parmesan melted over buttered toast) and the vaunted classic chili (beans and chunks of rather tough beef seasoned with musty chili powder) are faithful re-creations, just as awful as they were in the old days.

The hobo steak, which I used to rather like, isn’t on the menu yet, but it will be. Otsuka, who was chef de cuisine at Patina, has added his own more contemporary dishes: a lobster chowder, a “collage” of grilled vegetables, the obligatory California-style pastas, more fish dishes and specials. A good thing, too, since most people are going to order the Chasen’s classics just once--out of curiosity.

Until last week, the original West Hollywood site on Beverly Boulevard near Doheny was boarded up, its faded awning in tatters. Now it’s got a brand-new green-and-white striped awning and a new role as Chasen’s Events, which will cater large parties for the new Chasen’s through the end of 1997.

BE THERE

Chasen’s, 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 858-1200. Now open daily for dinner; lunch starts May 2 and will be served daily. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Appetizers $7.50-$18.50; entrees $16.50-$38.50.