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Chiller Soups

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Bennett is the author of "Dinner for Two" (Barron's, 1994)

Cucumbers’ refreshing qualities are obvious in any dish that uses them, and nothing revives a dulled summer appetite like a cucumber-yogurt relish or a chilled cucumber soup.

To take advantage of this seasonal treasure while it’s at its peak at farmers markets and supermarkets, prepare delicious Cucumber and Cilantro Soup. The combination of buttermilk and horseradish provides tang and a little bite to keep the flavor interesting.

Choose fruit that is firm to the very tips. Go for long, relatively lean cucumbers; the fatter the shape, the greater the proportion of seeds. If you’d prefer to skip the seeds altogether, buy the seedless ones, but you’ll pay a premium price.

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Cucumbers are as perishable as any fruit. Keep them refrigerated and use within a few days. If a cucumber is getting soft to the touch, use it immediately. If it feels slimy, discard it.

You might not think of a potato as a summer chiller, but cold potato soup is a classic. This version using buttermilk and nonfat sour cream is creamy yet light, satisfying but low in fat and calories.

Either soup would be great as part of a picnic menu. Prepare the soups ahead to allow enough time for them to thoroughly chill, then pack into vacuum containers. To serve, shake well and pour into mugs. Add corn muffins or baking powder biscuits and fresh fruit to complete the meal.

CUCUMBER AND CILANTRO SOUP (VEGETARIAN)

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced

5 tablespoons cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon drained white horseradish

1 tablespoon minced green onion

1 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Salt

White pepper

2 tablespoons whipping cream

Be sure the buttermilk is very cold when you use it.

Puree cucumber, cilantro, horseradish and green onion in blender. Add buttermilk and lemon juice and blend again.

Pour into bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in cream. Stir again just before serving because solids in soup settle quickly.

2 servings. Each serving:

124 calories; 288 mg sodium; 25 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.97 gram fiber.

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POTATO-CHIVE SOUP (VEGETARIAN)

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onions

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

1/2 cup nonfat sour cream

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 tablespoon chopped mint

3 small cooked, peeled and diced boiling potatoes (about 3/4 pound)

Salt

White pepper

2 tablespoons chopped chive blossoms, optional

Heat oil in medium heavy-bottomed pan. Add onions and saute 5 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes and wine and cook over high heat until wine is reduced to 1 tablespoon, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir in 1 cup buttermilk and sour cream. Add chives, mint and potatoes and stir well. Add remaining 1/2 cup buttermilk if soup is too thick.

Cover soup and chill 1 to 2 hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into 2 soup bowls. Sprinkle with chive blossoms if desired.

2 servings. Each serving:

321 calories; 394 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 1.08 grams fiber.

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