Cast Away at the Pier

The original McFadden Wharf in Newport Beach was completed more than a century ago. Today, the action never stops at Newport Pier.

EARLY MORNING: 1 2

The Dory Fishing Fleet, founded in 1891, is the last such fleet in the country, according to a plaque at the site. The fleet has 10 boats; you can usually spot one or two departing around 3 a.m. Many of the Dory fishermen stop in first for coffee at Seaside Bakery. Where else can you get a cup of Hawaiian hazelnut coffee (75 cents) and a raspberry cream cheese croissant ($1.10) at 2 in the morning?

EARLY MORNING: 2 3

No telling just when the fishermen will return, or when their open-air fish market (among fish recently available were yellowtail at $3 per pound, sculpin, shrimp and crab) will be ready for business, as a sign attests: “Open most days about 8 or 9, occasionally as early as 7, but some days as late as 10 or 11. We close about 12 or 1, but sometimes as late as 2 or 3. Some days we aren’t here at all and lately we’ve been here just about all the time, except when we’re someplace else. --the Dory Fleet Mis-management.”

Atop the pilings is a whimsical life-size sculpture of a doryman rowing the SS Mabel; maybe that’s a sculpture of Mabel with a bucket of clams on the roof nearby. The boats now use outboard motors.

If the fisherman aren’t back when you get there, you can get your own motor running at Charlie’s Chili. The menu touts “possibly the world’s greatest” chili cheese omelet ($5.50). For a kick-start, try a bowl of chili ($2.75, small $2.25, with cheese add 55 cents). The restaurant is marking its 30th year.

MORNING: 4

It’s about six miles round-trip from Newport Pier south to the jetty end of the Board Walk beach path. You can rent bicycles at Boardwalk Sports ($5 per hour, $10 for three hours, $20 all day) or tandem bikes for, appropriately, about twice the price. Xanadu Skate Rentals rents in-line skates ($5 per hour, $8 for 2 hours, $12 per day) around the corner on 22nd Street.

LUNCH: 5

Take an amble on the pier; some pier fishers can be heard muttering, “Stupid fishing pole!” while others clean their catch. At pier’s end, and offering pier’s-end views on the upstairs patio, is Newport Pier Seafood and Bar, where specialties include eel rice bowl ($12.95) and live crab ($10.95 per pound) and lobster ($18.95 per pound).

Back on land, there’s a Hot Dog on a Stick near Charlie’s Chili. Either way, consider a Balboa bar ($1.50), hand-dipped ice cream, at Pipeline, next to Boardwalk Sports.

AFTERNOON: 6 7

Head to the beach! If you need anything at all, from sunscreen to a surfboard, check out PJ’s Surfrider. Pacific Shell Store offers used paperbacks for 50 cents--most of them used once, by the shop’s owner. Shark jaws range from $6.95 to $495.

DINNER: 8

No beach attire is allowed at 21 Ocean Front Restaurant; otherwise, you could consider clam chowder for $5 or abalone Alley West for $55.

Rockin’ Baja Lobster, another option, advertises carnitas, margaritas and senoritas. The restaurant is serviceable. Specialty margaritas ($4.50-$8.95) include the Horny-Rita, made with Hornitos Tequila.

The big draws are party buckets such as the Big Wambini (langoustine, chicken, shrimp and carne asada, $12.99 for one, $24.59 for two) that include salad and all-you-can-eat beans, rice and tortillas. You can split an order for one for a surcharge of $3.99. Desserts include burrito a la mode.

NIGHT: 9

The sign outside Blackies by the Sea says, “Sorry, we’re open.” Barflies feel differently. A sign inside says: “Yes, you can bring food in from other places.” On tap are Sierra Nevada, Red Hook and Newcastle Brown Ale (mug $2.75, schooner $6.50, pitcher $12).

Next door to Blackies, Beach Ball Cocktails offers three pool tables and long hours: It’s closed only from 2 to 6 a.m.

EARLY MORNING: 1 2

Many of the Dory fishermen stop in for coffee at Seaside Bakery. . . .