1995 Domaine de Fontenille Co^tes du Luberon, Provence About $14

One whiff of this beautiful, concentrated Co^tes du Luberon from Provence, heady with scents of blackberry, cassis, black pepper and wild Provencal herbs, is enough to reveal a rustic wine of tremendous character. This tannic powerhouse--a blend of Syrah and Grenache, dark as ink--needs something like wild boar . . . or at least some charred meat or ribs. I’d also pair it with a good beef daube with purple-black olives served cold in summer’s heat.