Mom’s Easter Kitchen

My dad says that when my mom was in her early 20s, she was quiet and shy and liked reading the poetry of Emily Dickinson. I have a picture of her when she was younger than I am now that allows me the barest glimpse of this sweet, girlish side of my mom. She has a small smile and looks a lot like me.

But this is not the unflappable, intractable mom I know, who once held two intruders at gunpoint in her house until police arrived and who is not afraid of anything or anybody. When she gets a certain expression about her upper lip, I imagine she looks very much like her sergeant major father.

My mom, whose tone of voice makes her sound like she’s yelling even when she’s not, never expresses tender emotions, though she has no trouble letting out less tender ones.

And yet, when my mother is in the kitchen, she becomes as tender and expressive as a poet.

My mom was born in Arkansas and raised in cities all over Europe and Asia. But when she moved to Oakland in the 1960s, she embraced California cuisine as if it were her birthright.

She would buy any fresh vegetable, especially if she’d never seen it before, and our dinner plates would appear with things like broccoli-cauliflower hybrids and tiny white globe eggplants that looked exactly like eggs. She also discovered peanut butter and jelly in a single jar and hot dogs with the chili already in them. It was this unafraid, non-snobbish curiosity that made her a great cook, whose equal in the kitchen I have never met.

After working all day, she’d come home and make things like gazpacho or linguine with clam sauce or fresh pesto for two kids, who would wail their disappointment over green spaghetti with no meatballs. Our childish preference for white rice dinners--my brother’s covered with catsup, mine drenched in soy sauce--didn’t deter her from trying new things or new ways of getting us to eat them. Welsh rarebit with tomato sauce became “blushing bunny.”

She’d plow through cookbooks the way some people read detective novels, and as my brother and I grew, her collection grew in alarmingly perilous stacks all over the house. After three decades of cooking and baking, she has close to 2,000 books, on every imaginable food topic. But bread has always been her particular passion.

It began, I think, soon after she married my dad. Someone in his family gave them a loaf of Portuguese Easter bread from a local bakery. Since my father’s grandparents immigrated to Oakland from Portugal and the Portuguese islands of Madeira in the early part of the century, the bread was probably intended more as a symbolic gesture of family bonding than a culinary one. But my mother was immediately taken with the bread’s flavor and set out to duplicate it in her own oven.

This was before she amassed her cookbook collection and before she had much experience in the kitchen. But this loaf of sweet bread, which was unlike the biscuits and corn bread her mother had made, piqued her interest at a time when she was ripe for a culinary epiphany.

Pretty soon she was making so many of the breads that every spring our kitchen turned into a small bakery and practically everyone we knew would receive a gift of sweet-smelling bread at Easter. Always there would be stately round loaves of Portuguese Easter bread with a single white egg nestled in the center, but there were also Russian Easter breads, baked in coffee cans and decorated with a cap of white icing, and meltingly tender hot cross buns, studded with currants and inscribed with Celtic crosses in powdered sugar icing.

Best of all were individual Easter egg buns with pastel colored hard-cooked eggs in the center. My mom would patiently help as my brother and I dyed a batch of raw eggs to be baked into these buns. The eggs were gently pressed into little rounds of dough that were then decorated with colored candy sprinkles. My brother and I traditionally looked for a hidden basket of these breads on Easter morning. One of these rolls and a few chocolate eggs or marshmallow rabbits made one of the best breakfasts around.

For me, Easter came to mean these breads with dark, glossy crusts, velvety, eggy interiors and just a whiff of orange, anise or mace.

Baking has sustained her through many years. Upon finding herself a divorced mother of two at age 30, my mom applied to law school. In answer to an essay question on the application form about her organizational skills, she described a visit to my elementary school, where she had made miniature loaves of white bread with four classes of first- and second-graders. At the end of the day, each child took home a warm loaf of bread and a recipe.

“We made 130 little loaves of bread” she says, retelling the story in a tone of voice that implies that her years as a lawyer haven’t tested her organizational skills more sorely.

Very early on, I understood baking as an expression of my mom’s more tender emotions. When bread was baking, the kitchen would be warm and humid and filled with the earthy, nurturing smells of yeast and grains.

Baking bread was a physical, nurturing act for an undemonstrative woman whose creativity, gentleness and generosity came out in the gifts she baked for family and friends. These gifts were always substantial, practical, nourishing kinds of breads, rather than sweet desserts, which she saw as more frivolous.

She never used a mixer but preferred to feel the dough yielding to her capable fingers as she kneaded it and coaxed it into braids or round loaves. She even baked bone-shaped biscuits flavored with meat drippings for our dog, who perhaps even more than we did associated her with the smell of freshly baked goods.

In the kitchen, if I can’t get inside my mom’s head, at least I can get at her method. This is where I learned not only baking but determination, patience and how to make do with the ingredients at hand.

When I talk with my mom about sponge cakes that don’t rise or sickly sourdough starters, we’re communicating in the language that we’ve shared since I was a child. In the kitchen we can exchange criticism and praise with impunity, free of the mother-daughter relationship.

I sometimes call my mom to regale her with professional tales of near-disaster, like the sudden end of Granny Smith apple season or 90 individual mousse cakes that would not come out of their ramekins for love or money. Nothing I tell her, no matter how harrowing, can faze her, though. I think that, rather than listening to me, she’s picturing me in first grade and imagining 130 little loaves of bread.

*

Ferreira, a former Times Food section intern, is a pastry chef at Greens in San Francisco.

HOT CROSS BUNS

BUNS

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons milk

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

4 eggs

3 3/4 cups flour, sifted, about

1/2 cup currants

Candied lemon or tangerine peel, optional

1/2 cup powdered sugar

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Dissolve yeast in warm water.

Heat 1/4 cup milk and butter in small saucepan until butter melts. Pour into large mixing bowl and let cool to lukewarm. Stir in sugar, salt and 3 eggs. Add dissolved yeast and 1 cup flour and mix. Add currants and candied lemon peel if using. Gradually add remaining flour until soft, slack dough forms. Knead by hand or with electric mixer 2 to 3 minutes. Place in oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.

Gently collapse dough and turn out onto lightly floured board. Divide dough in half. Roll each half into cylinder and cut into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into tight round roll shape. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Make cross on top of each bun with sharp knife. Beat remaining egg with remaining 2 teaspoons milk and brush top of each bun to glaze.

Bake at 375 degrees until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool.

Combine powdered sugar, lemon juice and vanilla and pipe or drizzle along cut lines of each bun to make cross.

16 buns. Each bun:

206 calories; 225 mg sodium; 69 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.20 gram fiber.

PORTUGUESE SWEET EASTER BREAD

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

3/4 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

3/4 cup, plus 2 teaspoons milk

1 cup (2 sticks) butter

3/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

12 eggs, plus 1 egg yolk

Zest of 3 lemons, finely chopped

1 teaspoon mace

7 to 8 cups flour, sifted

Dissolve yeast in warm water.

Heat 3/4 cup milk and butter in small saucepan until butter melts. Pour into large mixing bowl and let cool to lukewarm. Stir in sugar, salt, 9 eggs, lemon zest and mace. Stir in dissolved yeast and 2 cups flour. Gradually add as much remaining flour as needed to form very soft, slack dough. Knead by hand or with electric mixer 4 to 5 minutes, adding as little additional flour as possible. Place dough in oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.

Gently collapse dough and turn out onto lightly floured board. Divide into 3 pieces and form each piece into round loaf. Place each loaf in lightly buttered pie pan (disposable aluminum ones work well). Let rise again, about 45 minutes.

Make indentation in center of each loaf with sharp knife. Lightly press each of 3 remaining raw eggs in their shells into indentation in each loaf.

Beat egg yolk with remaining 2 teaspoons milk and brush on loaves to glaze. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

3 loaves. Each of 30 servings:

208 calories; 210 mg sodium; 111 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

INDIVIDUAL EASTER EGG BUNS

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

1/2 cup plus 2 teaspoons milk

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

4 eggs plus 12 dyed color of choice

Zest of 2 oranges

4 1/2 cups flour, sifted, about

Candy sprinkles, optional

Dissolve yeast in warm water.

Heat 1/2 cup milk and butter in small saucepan until butter melts. Pour into large mixing bowl and let cool to lukewarm. Stir in sugar, salt, 3 eggs and orange zest. Stir in dissolved yeast and 1 cup flour. Gradually add as much of remaining flour as needed to form soft dough. Knead by hand or with electric mixer 4 to 5 minutes until smooth and elastic, adding as little additional flour as possible. Place dough in oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.

Gently collapse dough and turn out onto lightly floured board. Divide dough into 12 pieces and form each into flat round piece. Make indentation in center of each bun and place on baking sheet. Gently press 1 colored egg into indentation in each bun. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 45 minutes.

Beat remaining egg with remaining 2 teaspoons milk and brush on top of buns. Decorate with colored candy sprinkles if desired. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes.

12 buns. Each bun:

359 calories; 365 mg sodium; 305 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.13 gram fiber.

ITALIAN ANISE EASTER BREAD

(low-fat cooking)

1 cup plus 2 teaspoons milk

6 tablespoons butter

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons dry yeast

Pinch sugar

1/4 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

6 to 6 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

5 eggs

2 tablespoons pure anise extract

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

This fragrant braided loaf is from Beth Hensperger’s “Bread for All Seasons” (Chronicle Books, 1995). It has to rise three times, and the first time takes 12 hours, so plan to start a day ahead when making it.

Heat 1 cup milk, butter and sugar in medium saucepan, stirring occasionally, until butter melts. Let cool until lukewarm.

Sprinkle yeast and sugar over warm water in small bowl and stir to dissolve. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Combine 6 cups flour, salt and baking powder in large bowl and mix with whisk or paddle attachment of electric mixer on low speed. Make well in center of dough and break 4 eggs into well. Gradually mix few tablespoons flour into eggs, add anise extract, yeast mixture and milk mixture. Mix until soft, smooth, sticky dough forms.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, 2 to 3 minutes, adding 1 tablespoon flour at a time as necessary to prevent sticking. Dough should remain very soft and springy. Place in oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled, 12 hours or overnight.

Gently deflate dough and let rise again until doubled, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Gently deflate dough again and divide into 9 pieces. On lightly floured work surface, roll each piece into rope 12 inches long. Braid 3 ropes together for each loaf, tucking ends under. Place each braid in greased 9x5-inch loaf pan or on greased or parchment-lined baking sheets. Let rise 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Beat remaining egg with remaining 2 teaspoons milk and brush tops of loaves. Sprinkle with fennel seeds. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes.

3 loaves. Each of 36 servings:

123 calories; 154 mg sodium; 35 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

GREEK EASTER BREAD

(low-fat cooking)

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1 cup plus 2 teaspoons milk

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

2 teaspoons mahleb, crushed or ground

1/4 teaspoon anise seeds, crushed or ground

Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped

Zest of 1 orange, finely chopped

5 eggs, plus 4 dyed red

5 1/2 to 6 cups flour

Sesame seeds or blanched almonds, optional

This version of tsoureki is flavored with a little anise and mahleb, which is crushed or ground sour cherry pits used as a spice. Mahleb is available at markets selling Middle Eastern ingredients. This recipe makes two medium-sized braided loaves or one large circular braid.

Dissolve yeast in warm water.

Heat butter and 1 cup milk in saucepan until butter melts. Cool to lukewarm. Stir in salt, sugar, mahleb, anise, lemon and orange zests and 4 lightly beaten eggs. Add yeast mixture.

Transfer to large bowl or work bowl of electric mixer. Stir in 2 cups flour. Gradually mix in 3 cups flour until soft dough comes together. Knead until dough is smooth and elastic but still soft and slightly sticky, adding as little additional flour as possible, 5 to 7 minutes. Place in large oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours. Gently collapse dough and turn out onto lightly floured board.

To make 2 loaves, divide dough into 6 pieces. Roll each piece into 12-inch-long rope. Using 3 ropes each, make 2 loose braids and place on greased baking sheet. Pinch ends of bread together and tuck under loaf. Insert 2 red eggs at even intervals in top of each braid, gently separating ropes to secure eggs.

To make large circular braid, divide dough into 3 pieces. Roll each piece into rope about 26 inches long. Braid ropes and form into wreath on greased baking sheet, pinching ends together. Insert red eggs at even intervals into folds of braid, gently separating ropes to secure eggs.

Let rise until nearly doubled, about 30 minutes. Press eggs into bread again if necessary.

Beat remaining egg with remaining 2 teaspoons milk and brush top of loaves. Sprinkle with sesame seeds or blanched almonds if desired. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, about 30 minutes.

30 to 36 servings. Each of 36 servings:

121 calories; 111 mg sodium; 60 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.05 gram fiber.