Beer Appreciation I

Like most good things, beer invites appreciation at different levels. So at this year’s Oregon Brewers Festival, I compared my views, as somebody who knows what he likes and why but who finds there are entire styles that elude him, with those of Bob McCracken Jr., president of the Oregon Brew Crew, a club dedicated to beer appreciation.

In an afternoon, we sampled 13 beers. McCracken made our selections to explore the range of contemporary craft brewing, although this meant we overlooked some popular styles such as Pale Ale, IPA and Brown Ale.

Here are highlights:

* Gruitberren Ale by Alameda Brewhouse, Portland. Before hops, brewers used herbs and spices in beer. This is an example of a pre-hops beer in the German Kolsch style, typically a lager-ale hybrid. McCracken: Light, spicy, dry finish. Doesn’t hang around on the palate. Me: Too much unlike beer.

* Sudwerk Pilsner by Sudwerk Privatbraueri Hubsch, Davis, Calif. This is a classic variety of lager. McCracken: Crisp, balanced, with a hint of malt in the background and Noble-type hop aroma [an aromatic style of hops]. If you know what a Pilsner is, you’d say they have done a terrific job. Me: Lagers are not my favorite brew, but this example seems complex, inviting and assertive.

* Lemongrass Rye by Free State Brewing Co., Lawrence, Kan. An ale brewed using rye and lemon grass in addition to the more common barley and hops. McCracken: A super-clean ale, but the lemon grass is too subtle. I don’t know if I’d like it, but if they’re going to call it lemon grass, I’d like to try it and see. Me: Huh? I find both rye and citrus lingering in the mouth and pleasantly so.

* Lilikoi Wheat by Kona Brewing Co., Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. This is a low-alcohol fruit-flavored wheat ale; wheat is used along with barley in brewing and fruit is added for flavor. McCracken: Sometimes fruit works. Here we have passion fruit, and they’ve done a good job. There isn’t much beer behind it, but it’s pretty darned good. Me: Tastes like somebody did not rinse out the morning fruit juice from my mug.

* Moss Bay Extra by Hale’s Ales, Seattle. A British-style “bitter ale,” which means, inconveniently, that it’s not bitter by American standards. McCracken: Woody flavor from yeast, which can be enhanced by swirling it in the mug. Subtle flavors, not assertive. Excellent example of British “session” beers, good for a session of drinking. Me: Bravo. A beer of beers, wherein traditional ale aroma, flavor and hops all battle for my heart and win.

* Bourbon Bock by Widmer Brothers, Portland. A dark German-style beer that was aged in Bourbon barrels. A novelty brewed only for this festival, not for sale. (Too bad, because it proved to be wildly popular.) McCracken: This is a lot of beer, almost an aperitif. It nicely shows the creativity of the brewer. There should be more things like this at a festival. Just fun. Me: A big, brawny beer. A beer to remember. Or was it a beer to make one forget?

* Be^te Blanche Ale by Elysian Brewing Co., Seattle. A Belgian tripel, or strong beer. Beers in the Belgian style are apt to go off in the strangest and most wondrous directions. McCracken: I can taste green apple; bubble gum--but not much bubble gum; banana. This is a lot of fun, there’s a lot going on. The flavors grow more vigorous as the beer warms. Me: So unusual, I feel whiplash at the first sip, but it draws me in.

* Collaborator Milk Stout by the Oregon Brew Crew and Widmer Brothers, Portland. This is an old-fashioned heavy ale with lots of roasted flavors. The use of milk buffers the typical malt flavor and gives this beer silky texture. In days past, this style was known as “beer that’s good for what ails you.” McCracken: There isn’t a beer like this anywhere in Portland, anywhere in the Northwest, anywhere in the West. Me: At least you cannot taste the milk and, being brown-black in color, it does not leave a white milk mustache.

* Wisconsin Belgian Red by New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, Wis. This a much celebrated example of cherry fruit beer. McCracken: On the edge of being cough syrup, but balanced, sour and sweet. Me: Sometimes fruit does work. This beer smells and tastes like a cherry pie. The tart cherry flavor is very assertive, but to my surprise the beer underneath keeps me drinking.