Latin Variety Is Nestled Deep in the Heart of New Ciudad

Ciudad (that’s “city” in Spanish) is the latest restaurant from Border Grill’s and the former City Restaurant’s Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, better known these days as hosts of the cable hit “Too Hot Tamales” cooking show on the Food Network. The two have come up with a smart concept for the downtown L.A. restaurant: “the bold seductive flavors of the world’s great Latin cities, from Havana to Rio de Janeiro to Barcelona.”

In terms of looks, I don’t know what I was expecting, but certainly not this: a quirky tribute to ‘50s design and all those adorable colors like pink, avocado, orange and lemon yellow. The surprise of an entire restaurant painted a juicy yellow-green elicits a smile from just about everybody who walks in the door. Loopy black lines meander over the white ceiling, waiters are dressed up in guanabera shirts and the stemware and plates sport old-fashioned jelly glass motifs.

The menu is a Latin free-for-all: Appetizers include papas criollas (mashed potato croquettes stuffed with stewed oxtail) from Peru, flaky Argentine empanadas stuffed with greens and with wild mushrooms, Salvadoran pupusas oozing molten cheese, Ecuadorean salmon tartare and Basque seared calamari with white beans and pimiento-stained chorizo. The best strategy is to order half a dozen appetizers and eat them tapas-style.

Platos principales (main courses) are huge, especially at dinner. There are Cuban-style chicken, massive short ribs with a smoldering panca pepper barbecue sauce and a couple of vegetarian options. The star of the menu may be the Argentine rib-eye made with imported free-range beef. Stuffed with sliced jalapenos and whole garlic cloves, it’s a tasty, chewy cut that packs serious heat.

At lunch, the menu features a handful of starters along with Cuban pressed sandwiches served with Peruvian potato salad or cumin fries. And main courses are all under $13.50.

Desserts, all on the hefty side, need some work. Consider also the rum sampler, your choice of any three from Ciudad’s list of sipping rums. The trio is served with a glass of ice and some syrup to sweeten the spirit, if you’re so inclined.

I also think the cuchifrito, snacks served in the bar from 3 to 7 p.m., sort of a Latin happy hour, could get to be a habit. Especially with mojitos, Cuba’s mint-infused rum collins.

BE THERE

Ciudad, 445 S. Figueroa St. (at 5th Street), Los Angeles; (213) 486-5171. Open weekdays for lunch; daily for dinner. Dinner appetizers $5 to $7.50; main courses $11.50 to $22; lunch items $4.75 to $13.50; bar snacks $1.50 to $4. Validated parking at lunch; valet parking at night.